Four days before we had to leave our
house, we found we had time for one last mountain trip, and, after
the usual studying of maps, we decided to hike into the Settlers
Group on the east side of the Purcell Mountains. In March of the
same year, we had skied up to Kootenay Joe Ridge from Johnsons
Landing and looked over at the Settlers Group from the summit of
Kootenay Joe Ridge. Draped in a blanket of snow, the mountains and
extensive alplands were stunningly beautiful. That was part of the
appeal of the Settlers Group, the other, equally important part was
ease of access. A good trail leads from a landing in a cutblock at
5,500 feet to the tiny Heart Lake at 7,350 feet. Finally, Salisbury
Creek FSR, where the trail starts, was reported to be in good shape,
a rarity in 2012 when record monsoon rains washed out dozens of other
roads in the Kootenay region.
Doug hiking up to the col
Hike In, Mount Willet Attempt
The trail, built by enthusiastic locals
and not well (if at all) known outside the local area, starts at
roads end and is relatively easy to find. Perhaps 20 metres before
the absolute road end, look for an ATV track bashed into the
cutblock. The trail starts at this ATV track, but heads north
(climbers left) and is marked by a sketch of a hiker on a large tree
at the edge of the cutblock. The trail climbs gently and contours
north into the south fork of Bulmer Creek, travels due east, skirting
the north end of a boulder field, and eventually climbs steeply to a
narrow col northeast of Tooth Ridge.
After about two hours hiking we came
out at Heart Lake, a pretty little tarn amidst alpine meadows marred
only by a scattering of fire pits. We had a break by the lake, then
wandered up alplands to an 8,000 foot ridgeline. Looking east, we
could see Winter Peak and Mount Bulmer, while the bigger peaks of the
Purcell Wilderness Conservancy stretched away beyond Fry Creek to the
southeast.
We descended about 200 feet wandering
through delightful alpine meadows to a small tarn overlooking Fry
Creek Canyon. Campsites were plentiful, but, as you often do when
faced with a plethora of choice, it took us a half hour to settle on
a tent site. Tent up, afternoon munchies ingested, we headed off to
see if Mount Willet could be easily ascended from this direction. We
were able to contour across rubble slopes and neve at about 7,800
feet, just under the steep loose cliffs of Beguin W3 (Bivouac
nomenclature). After about an hour, we'd got to a spot about 180
feet below a steep headwall on the east side of the standard ascent
route (SE ridge). The late hour, combined with the nasty looking
headwall, turned us back and we hiked back to camp arriving in time
to witness a glorious sunset.
Another spectacular Purcell sunset
Mount Beguin, Bacchus Ridge, Winter
Peak
Next morning we laid in until the sun
hit the tent, and, after some breakfast set off to scramble up which
ever peaks of the Settlers Group took our fancy. Truthfully, we
found it strange that so many small and incredibly loose bumps along
a ridge should earn such lofty titles. In 1969, Curt Wagner, from
Minnesota, climbed all these peaks and named them after local
settlers. Given current strictures on naming it's doubtful such
things would not happen today.
In any case, a friend of ours, who had
scrambled many of these peaks, had told us that the best access to
all these peaks was from the south side. The glaciers shown on the
map have long since disappeared from the south side, while only
remnant steep pocket glaciers remain on the north side.
Pleasant alpine rambling led us around
the south shoulder of Winter Peak at about 8,100 feet where a great
quantity of rubbly rock greeted us. We decided to head for Mount
Beguin, half because it was the highest of the group and half because
we could just see an easy ramp through the rubble. Maintaining our
elevation as much as we could, we contoured across meadow, rubble and
occasional patches of snow until we encountered a solid white rib of
rock running south from Mount Bulmer.
Mount Bulmer itself looked frightfully
loose, but an easy ramp of talus and meadow led from the base of
Bulmer all the way up to the west ridge of Mount Beguin. This ramp
was low angle enough that the loose rock was no problem and, in a
half an hour, we were hiking along the final loose and somewhat
narrow west ridge to the top.
It was still early and Bacchus Ridge,
while incredibly loose, also offered easy ridge walking, so we
continued northeast, skirting around a rubble tower on the ridge on
the south side to the top of Bacchus Ridge where we surprised a large
flock of small birds feeding on who knows what hidden among the
rubble.
I toyed with continuing on to Mount
Clark, but the "peak" is 300 feet lower than Bacchus Ridge
and singularly unimpressive. Instead, we hiked back over the top of
Beguin and headed west towards Winter Peak and camp. On the way back
to camp, I scrambled up Winter Peak via steep grassy slopes on the
south side and had a good view of camp from the grey rocky summit.
Doug wandered back to camp ahead of me.
A moderate south wind had been blowing
smoke in all day and by evening views were quite obscured by forest
fire smoke from the USA.
Evening light on Mount Bulmer and Winter Peak
Tooth Ridge Attempt, GR125530
All good things must end, even a last
alpine trip, and the next day we packed up and walked back towards
Heart Lake. I wanted to try Tooth Ridge on the way out, Doug, who
thought it looked steep, loose, and well - nasty - decided to hike up
GR125530 as we passed by instead. At ridge top at GR125535 we parted
ways arranging to meet at the col northeast of Tooth Ridge where the
trail first climbs out of South Bulmer Creek valley.
Doug had a good goat track along the
ridge and a little class 3 quartzite scrambling soon put him on top
of GR125530. I had considerably less luck on Tooth Ridge.
Initially, a good trail led around the west side of the first
crumbling tower. The trail then deteriorated markedly, and, at some
point along the ridge disappeared altogether. I managed to claw my
way along very steep loose terrain to the top of the final tower
before the summit tower, but the increasingly steep, loose exposed
terrain caused me to rethink the whole endeavour and I turned back
before the final summit. Meeting my demise or breaking both legs on
my final trip into the Canadian mountains was not high on my bucket
list.
Back at the col, Doug soon appeared
somewhat relieved that I had turned back, and we hiked easily down
the trail, nibbling on huckleberries and ending our last foray into
the Canadian mountains - at least for now.
Doug looking north from Mount Bulmer
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