I have never taken any exercise except
sleeping and resting. Mark Twain.
As one of those tedious, goal oriented
people who think that all that talk about the journey being as
important as the destination is merely the excuse of the unmotivated,
I am like a terrier down a fox hole in pursuit of my objectives.
I'll climb until I can no longer hang on, lift until the bar falls on
top of me, or virtually drown myself trying to get a reliable eskimo
roll before I would consider giving up. Persistence is important in
striving for goals, but it has taken me half a century to realize
that stepping away and resting is just as important.
Resting after a days climbing in the Selkirk Mountains
As a compulsive exerciser, it has been
hard for me to reduce my training volume, but, decreasing the
frequency of my weight training days while keeping the intensity
maximal has resulted in the biggest strength gains I have seen in
years – and remember, at 50, I am well past my use by date. This
is not just useless strength like doing bicep curls with a dumb-bell
or sitting at a leg press machine, this is real functional strength
that allows me to hang on all the way across the roof at the outdoor
climbing area in Cairns, or easily lift my sea kayak overhead.
Hamish, caught dozing after a day climbing at Skaha
Last summer, I had a semi-reliable
eskimo roll in my sea kayak. I could roll up three to four times out
of five, and, if I missed a roll, I could usually get up on my second
try. But, somewhere over the intervening months, I ended up doing
almost all my practice when I was tired from a long day in the kayak.
And, my technique deteriorated. But, with my badger like disposition, I did not quit. I would just keep flipping over and
trying to come back up until my face was as blue as the ocean. All
this did was ingrain poor movement patterns which are now taking
hours of diligent – and intelligent – practice to erase.
Now, when I go out to work on my eskimo
roll I go out with the sole purpose of practicing my roll. That way
I am focused and fresh. As soon as my form begins to deteriorate I
stop. I no longer keep flipping over and failing to get up. It is,
however, important to end skill training sessions on a positive note,
so I will regress a little to a hip snap drill that I can do easily
to finish off the session ingraining correct movement patterns and
finishing in a positive, forward looking frame of mind.
Marv, resting after climbing four 11,000'ers in the Purcell Mountains
I often see climbers trying to eke out
one last pitch when they are tired and pumped. In some instances, it
is good to push through the pump, particularly if you are more
mentally fried than physically exhausted and if the fall is safe.
But, when your entire form deteriorates to the point that you've
completely lost body tension, it is time to quit. Pushing on through
this is generally worse in the long run as you ingrain sloppy
movement patterns that are difficult to correct later. As Kenny
Rogers said “you gotta know when to hold 'em, know when to fold
'em.”
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