When you are on a 14 to 16
km crossing there isn't all that much to look at from the cockpit of
a sea kayak, and, focusing too closely on your destination serves
only to make the distance you need to travel before you reach land
seem further. The easiest thing to do is to paddle as efficiently as
you can and then, conditions permitting, allow your mind to wander.
Paddling out to Rattlesnake Island in light winds, with our sails up,
apart from the usual discomfit I feel at having to lean my boat to
one side when using the sail in a beam wind, my mind was wandering
freely.
Rattlesnake Island in the distance from Toomulla
I thought about how much I
had enjoyed paddling with our Cairns friends. As any outdoor
adventurer will tell you, sharing adventures with friends, both new
and old, makes even the most mundane trips special. But, I also
thought about how much faster and smoother a small group of two, or
perhaps three at most can travel. Doug and I were up at 4.30 am and
on the road by 5.00 am. Deciding on a launch location, unloading
gear and boats, and packing to leave was quick, efficient and did not
require long discussions to make everyone happy. That kind of speed
and flexibility is hard to achieve with a bigger group, not
impossible, but often overwhelmingly difficult.
It's interesting as well
how our risk tolerance shifts. When Doug and I first started sea
kayaking in Queensland the 12 km crossing from Gould Island to Coolah
Island in the southern Family Group filled us with apprehension and
required careful planning to ensure we had a period of calm winds.
Now, we tossed off a 14 km crossing with winds forecast in the 15 to
20 knot range without any qualms. In fact, if the winds turned out
to be less than forecast we would be grumbling about not getting
sufficient push in the sails. The academics involved in accident
prevention have a term for this (although I can't remember what it
is). Essentially, so the theory goes, as new innovations are
introduced to reduce risk (like air bags in cars), people increase
their risk taking behaviour to compensate for the increased safety of
the activity and accident statistics remain static.
Doug on the sand spit on Herald Island
Long crossings seem a lot
like multi-pitch rock climbing to me. As you near the end of your
lead, with your rack of gear looking frightfully scanty and
searching for a spot to build a belay, there is a feeling of being
all alone. Somewhere, perhaps 50 metres below, your partner is
paying out rope and will hold you if you fall, but, they can't help
you find the route, make the right moves, plug in more gear, or build
a belay. You are on your own for all those things. Your partner is
there, but, at the same time, not really present. Crossing to
Rattlesnake Island felt much the same way. Doug was paddling off to
my side, perhaps 60 metres away. Were I to capsize, he could provide
assistance to get me back in my boat, but, it would take him some
time to notice I was missing, to turn around, and find me among the
wind waves. In the sort of chaotic conditions in which a capsize is
likely although your partner may be a scant 60 metres away, there is
really only so much they can do for you.
Herald Island sunset
That night, as we sat on
Herald Island watching the sun set, Doug likened sea kayaking in
north Queensland to sport climbing. Falling on sport climbs (if they
are sensibly bolted) is relatively safe. Injuries are rare, and most
often result from climber error (like getting off route, or having
the rope around your leg). You can climb right near, or even past
your limit with relative confidence that the worst that will happen
is a drop onto the rope. In northern Queensland, with the Great
Barrier Reef blocking major ocean swells, the warm water, and
predictable currents, capsizing doesn't seem that much worse than
falling off a sport climb. Capsizing off the coast of Canada,
however, with icy cold waters that cause fatal hypothermia in
minutes, is a bit like falling off an ice climb – and we all know
that when climbing frozen waterfalls “the leader doesn't fall.”
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