We are up in the Northern Territory
staying in the spacious campground at Elsey National Park where the
sun at midday could blow your head off, and I sweat just thinking
about rolling over in bed at night. The temperature varies between a
delicious low of about 30 degrees, which, if you are lucky, it might
plummet to in the early hours of the morning and 33 degrees the
remainder of the day and night. Standing out in the sun when there
is no wind, it feels as if your body might just burst into flames and
your life force flare out like an asteroid streaking to earth.
In the evening, when the sun slips
away, I feel as if I can finally simply breathe without sweating,
and, at the same time, every single camper in the campground (apart
from us) lights a wood camp-fire. I understand we are in an age of
political correctness where people are vertically challenged not
short, horizontally rounded not fat, and differently abled not
disabled, but, euphemisms aside, lighting a wood fire when the
temperature is 30 degrees and the planet is rapidly heading to a
climate induced burn-out is simply fucking retarded.
Roper River kayaking
I frequently wonder, as I watch these
representatives of what is supposed to be, the most intelligent
species on the planet, if any of them ever says to themselves "What
the hell am I thinking? I've been sitting here all day, prostrate
with the heat, it's 30 degrees and I'm lighting a fucking fire? Am I
a complete imbecile?" Apparently not, as all over campground,
the wood fires are winking on.
Anyway, dullards aside, Elsey National
Park is on the banks of the Roper River. This twisting turning
braided stream rises as a creek north of Mataranka and west of
Katherine and runs a long and convoluted course out to the Gulf of
Carpentaria. Along the way countless other small rivers and streams
join in, the river splits, meanders, rejoins, and eventually flows
out into the shallow waters of the Gulf almost 300 km away in Limmen
Bight.
A well marked hiking track runs the
length of the park from the clear spring fed swimming pools at
Rainbow Springs east to the tufa falls at Korowan on the Roper River.
Yesterday, we walked the length of the park, and, although we had a
swim in the thermal pools at Rainbow Springs, the best swim we had
was in the spring fed creek where the trail crosses the Little Roper
River on a low metal bridge. Here, the water was clear, deep and
running fast, and, as you have to walk to this spot - no infernal
combustion engine access - there was no-one else about. We splashed
around for half an hour in the near body temperature water doing
front levers (water assisted) under the bridge and attempting to
mantel onto the bridge from the water (surprisingly difficult).
A National Parks crew (of two) have
been hard at work improving and rerouting the main track after the
wet season floods, which must be hellish work in the pervasive heat.
It's great to see the government promoting a healthful activity like
walking, but disappointing to see how few people take advantage of
the trail network. I've spent about 10 cumulative hours walking
about the park on the tracks and have seen no more than a handful of
other walkers almost all of them on the short 1.2 km walk to Stevie's
Swimming Hole. Most of the other campers here seem to think that the
chair under their butts (large) is permanently attached. Perhaps,
after all this time in the hot weather (and by a campfire) it is.
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