Section 11 of the Larapinta Track runs
from Redbank Gorge to the Finke River. The total distance is roughly
28 km if you walk out to the highway at the Mount Sonder Lookout/Glen
Helen, so easily accomplished by reasonably fit hikers with a day
pack. On a decidedly Canadian morning, dark and cold (3 degrees
Celsius) we got up early, made a coffee and headed off the walk this
section with day packs.
Doug dropped me at Mount Sonder lookout
and went on to Redbank Gorge. He would walk east, I west, and we
would cross paths somewhere around Rocky Bar Gap. The section out to
the main Larapinta Track was familiar to me from the day before, and
soon enough I had reached the main Larapinta Track on the west side
of the Finke River. For the first 1.5 hours I strolled across the
flat lands with Mount Sonder tinted red by the rising sun to the
west. A waterhole on Davenport Creek required the removal of shoes
and socks to cross, and then some pleasant walking through light
trees followed.
Red cliff from hilltop lookout
Soon after crossing Davenport Creek the
track trends north towards a long ridge east of Rocky Bar Gap and a
very well constructed track with decorative rock work switchbacks
gradually up to the top of the ridge. Looking to the north, there is
a prominent red cliff that is detached from the main ridge line and
beyond the rolling terrain of West MacDonnell National Park. Another
half kilometre of easy walking on the ridge top and a campsite and
hill-top look-out (one of the many) is reached. I had breakfast here
sitting on some stones and gazing at Mount Sonder. It was still cool
enough at 10.30 am for long pants, a toque (woolly hat) and a puff
jacket.
Rockwork on the track
The track descends steadily on the
north side of the ridgeline and, near the bottom, I saw a familiar
figure below me. I was about 2 or 3 km from Rocky Bar Gap when I met
Doug. We exchanged pleasantries and I carried on. Walking through
the small trees to Rocky Bar Gap I saw beautiful green and bright
blue birds.
Rocky Bar Gap is a pretty location with
a dry creek bed, big ghost gums and small broken cliffs on either
side. From Rocky Bar Gap, the track ambles along on the north side
of the Mereenie Valley close to the base of the west ridge of Mount
Sonder. This is easy and pleasant walking. An hour or so west of
Rocky Bar Gap I had a bite of lunch, and soon after met the only
other hiker I was to see all day. Just over 7 hours after setting
out, I wandered up the final hill to the parking lot, picked up the
car, and drove down to collect Doug from Mount Sonder Lookout.
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