Watarrka National Park is on the
circuit travelled by people wandering about the Red Centre. South of
Alice Springs, north of Uluru and west of the Stuart Highway. It's a
bit of a detour off the Stuart Highway if you are heading south, but,
if you're on the Stuart Highway around these parts, you are probably
as close as you are going to get.
The park itself is in the George Gill
Range and encompasses a number of dry creeks as well as a few
permanent waterholes. The main tourist area is around Kings Canyon
and seems to see a half dozen (or more) tourist buses driving through
each day. I'm not sure what you see of Kings Canyon if you have only
a 20 minute stop from a tour bus as the park is best experienced on
one of the longer walks.
There's an amazing corner crack in there
As you enter Watarrka National Park
from the east, you pass first Kathleen Springs. The Giles track (22
km one way) ends here and there is also a short (2.4 km return) paved
(wheelchair accessible) walk up to the waterhole at Kathleen Springs.
You get a bit of a sense of the sandstone pagodas in this area from
the Kathleen Springs track which is a pleasant half hour wander.
Another 40 km further west is the main
Kings Canyon area where the other end of the Giles Track starts and a
6 km (8 km with side trips) loop walk leads up from Kings Creek onto
the plateau top and wanders along sandstone pavements between
sandstone pagodas around the head of Kings Canyon. This is a really
nice walk that is pleasant to amble along taking in all three of the
different side trips - the first up King Creek to a low viewing
platform, the second out to the canyon rim above a superb splitter
crack, and the third to a waterhole and dry waterfall at the eastern
end of Kings Canyon.
Doug walking among the sandstone pagodas
Unfortunately, like so many places around the
Red Centre climbing is banned. The sandstone is hard and patched
over with desert varnish plates. If you've climbed in Red Rocks, it
all looks very familiar and you really, really, really want to go
climbing, but you can't.
The Giles Track runs between Kings
Canyon and Kathleen Springs and intermittently wanders around
sandstone pagodas, up and down into dry creek beds fringed with river
red gums, and through brilliantly coloured wildflowers scattered
amongst mulga forest. Its a really nice day walk, quite easy as
there is very little elevation gain, and not too stony and hard on
the feet. I walked from Kings Canyon to Kathleen Springs while Doug
(who has some knee and foot issues) walked half the distance from
Lila spur to Kings Canyon. If Kings Canyon is too busy with walkers,
you'll be presently surprised on this track as I met no-one but Doug
(walking in the opposite direction) all day.
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