After a pretty unpleasant 40 Celsius
day the usual southerly change came through and it got cold again.
Victoria seems to be a continuous cycle of hot and cold weather never
really settling into anything really pleasant. We had a casual day
at Arapiles climbing some one and two pitch routes until it began to
thunder and rain just as I was finishing up Mesa (an easy grade 10).
For once, there was a rappel anchor on top and Doug and I were off in
a flash as the thunder rumbled all around us.
Detour ahead in Watchtower Chimney
The next day I had my pick and we
climbed Xena and Diapason. Xena is on the Pinnacle Face so has the
standard easy walk off down the tourist track. I led all the pitches
and it is a fun route with good gear, good belays and solid rock.
Pitch one is supposed to be 8, but I thought it was slightly harder
than pitch two which is 9, although there was really only one
slightly thin move on the first pitch up a steep smooth crack. Pitch
three is a ramble up easy terrain and pitch four pulls a roof on good
jugs and then eases to grade 8 terrain. We scored a booty cam from
the belay on Siren which some party had left behind. It was a bit
hot in the sun, but there was some breeze so after lunch, we walked
up to the Organ Pipes and I led all three pitches of Diapason (grade
8). Pitch one rambles up a steepening crack which can be tackled
straight on or out to the left. Pitch two is quite easy up the
buttress, and pitch three involves a couple of quasi-chimney moves
before a steep little traverse and then easy ground. Lots of
protection available on all the pitches and you can rappel off rings
past Piccolo so the descent is easy too.
Doug on pitch two of Panzer
Doug led all three pitches of Panzer
(grade 12) the next day. This is really a good route with a lot of
variety in the climbing. The first pitch is quite slabby with a thin
traverse. Gear is adequate but spaced. Pitch two climbs a steep
corner, then steps right around an arete onto the face and continues
up on more spaced gear placements. The last belay is under a roof,
and, in classic Arapiles style, the final pitch traverses out right
on easy ground, climbs a little corner, and then continues up juggy
terrain to the top of a little tower. The last pitch seems easier
than the other two but is still graded 12. You have to downclimb off
the back of the tower (about 5.3) and, as a fall would be greatly
injurious if not fatal, I climbed down first on belay and stuck a
couple of pieces in for Doug, none of which he appeared to need.
A pretty bomber anchor
The usual punting was being done on
Arachnus on both days we were nearby with the leaders endlessly
shouting "slack" and grunting with effort as they tried to
surmount the rope drag resulting from using sport draws on this
route. I'm beginning to think a sign at the bottom of the climb
warning people not to use short draws but to take double length
runners would save a lot of grief. The rope always zig-zags so
severely from side to side that the gear being placed is subject to
huge sideways pulls.
Doug starting up Watchtower Chimney pitch one
Yesterday we climbed Watchtower Chimney
and had time for Stalagmite (nicely in the shade) afterwards.
Watchtower Chimney is alternating pitches of grade 12 and grade 8,
Doug led the first three pitches and I the last easy pitch. Pitch
one starts up a steep crack that gradually fades out and then you
traverse left on slabby terrain to a slippery corner. Doug took the
high line on the traverse putting his feet on the little ledge with a
crack in the back, but that left nothing for the hands and no gear,
but I took the low route with reasonable dishes on the slab for my
feet, good hands in the ledge/crack (and you could put in a couple of
pieces of gear). I found the corner slippery and tricky, but I
always suck on the first pitch of the day. Pitch two finished up the
corner and then tackles the chimney. Doug got a good chockstone
belay after a couple of chimney moves, but I suspect most folks belay
below this chockstone. The chimney is interesting climbing and tough
for the leader to work out exactly how to tackle it. You start above
the chockstone with some stemming moves, then step onto a ledge on
the right and balance up this awkward stepped ledge on the right wall
of the chimney. A step across to the left wall gives a few more face
climbing moves, then you move right up into the chimney until you are
almost, but not quite, wedged in and with your back against the right
wall, and your feet on ledges on the left, chimney up until a couple
of good holds help you pull up out of the chimney onto a big belay
ledge. The route is pretty much over by then with just a couple of 8
moves up a crack on the right and a romp to the top.
Doug in Watchtower Chimney
We walked up to Preludes Wall after a
late lunch and Doug led Stalagmite (grade 13) which has two distinct
cruxes up overhangs. The bottom crack, although steep, looks
featured but is a little harder than it appears at first glance and
the second (final) overhang requires good body positioning and
tension to avoid thrashing about - as I did At the top of the route
is a big cave with huge "stalagmites" that make bomber
belays (although I am sure a certain local guide would insist on
"backing" them up). A short walk along the ledge with the
stalagmites is a rappel anchor so this was another cushy route.
Lake Wynn Reserve
We decided to stick with our two days
on/one day off climbing schedule which has turned out well as it has
been raining since mid morning today. I wandered off on a 14 km walk
which took me across the now completely dry Lake Natimuk to the
northern end where I picked up a track through a wildlife refuge that
runs along the also dry Natimuk Creek, a short stretch on a quiet
road and I got on another track through melalueca forest by Lake Wyn
(salt) wildlife reserve. That's another week at Arapiles gone by.
Lake Wynn
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