Apparently, the six kilometre circuit
walk of Lake Dove in Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park is
THE most popular walk in the entire park. I don't think this is
because it is the most interesting, rewarding, or scenic walk.
Rather, it is the walk that confronts the tourist the moment they
step off the shuttle bus, there is a nice view of Cradle Mountain,
Weindorfers Tower and The Horn from the shore line, and, it is well
graded and almost completely flat (there may be a total elevation
gain of 70 metres over the course of the entire six kilometre walk).
Doug and I were striding along the west
side of the track on our way to climb Cradle Mountain and, in our
usual, alpine mode, were walking along at brisk pace. Years of
alpine climbing seem to mean that we do just about everything at a
brisk pace with few stops - kayaking, walking, climbing, even grocery
shopping - it doesn't really seem to matter. We get up early, go
out, get it done and come back.
A couple of tourist types were grunting
up a short (20 metres of elevation gain?) section of well built
wooden stairs while I politely waited at the top for them to pass by.
"How long have you been walking?" the woman in the lead
gasped. For a moment, I was somewhat gob-smacked and stood there
gawping like the proverbial village idiot. In rapid succession a
series of thoughts flashed through my mind: how long ago had we
started walking, I can't remember, WTF difference does it make, I
walk five times faster than you so, if I say 30 minutes ago, and you
aren't back at the start of the walk in 30 minutes you'll either (a)
collapse in a puddle of helplessness, or (b) trigger your EPIRB for a
rescue all the while raining curses on me, my childrens' children (of
which there are none) and all or my relations (of which there are
many). Finally, gathering all my hard-learned Canadian politeness I
replied "I don't rightly know, Ma'am, and, I think I walk a
little (I emphasised little but thought lot) faster than you so it
likely is not relevant." Finally, hauling themselves to the
top, with their last breath - or so it seemed - they gasped out "it's
a terribly hard climb" and staggered on their way.
Looking out over Cradle Mountain
By now Doug was way ahead, so I jogged
along the track to catch him up, but, the whole exchange got me
thinking about walking, about how we judge how others walk by how we
ourselves do, and how so many of us (the communal human species) have
all but lost the ability to do something that is absolutely intrinsic
to being human.
A few weeks ago, when Doug and I walked
into Frenchmans Cap, we met a couple of very friendly women on their
way out. We were crossing the suspension bridge over the Loddon
River on our way into Lake Vera and the two women were on their way
out from Lake Vera. They also wanted to know how long we had been
walking. This time we knew, just a wee bit shy (perhaps 10 minutes )
of two hours, so we said "two hours." "You'll want to
know how long we've been going," one said quite confidently. I
didn't really. As condemnatory as it sounds, I could tell by looking
at the two women that I walked faster than them. And, in any case, I
was going to walk until I got to Lake Vera so really what difference
did their walking time make to me. But, again, Canadian politeness
rescued me and I replied "Of course."
"Three and a half hours," one
said, "but, we've been going down-hill, you'll be going uphill
so it will take you longer, at least four hours." Good grief I
thought. Four more hours to walk six kilometres, I certainly hope
not. In the end, it took us again, a bit shy of two hours, to walk
the rest of the way into Lake Vera. I've often wondered how those
women felt when two hours came and went and they were no where near
the end of their days walk. Were they too raining curses upon us?
And, now my final story in this long
preamble which will take us back to Cradle Mountain. Soon enough,
Doug and I were on the final track to the top of Cradle Mountain
which climbs 300 metres in about a kilometre. I've already written
about how Doug was having a low gravity day and flew up this final
section in 40 minutes with me chasing behind (600 metres an hour is a
pretty standard rate of ascent in mountaineering terms on simple
terrain such as this). As we went up, passing various folk along the
way, one young lad came jogging down the track. One of the women
climbing up the track stood aside for him (and me) to pass, each
going our respective directions (me up, him down). The woman
exclaimed over what a hurry the young man was in. She judged him by
her standards, while I judged him by mine. To her, he was in a
ridiculous hurry while I knew that he was running because he felt
strong and fit, and running just felt natural.
I'd like to say we all feel like that
some times (hopefully most times). But, the truth is, most people,
even the young, seem to have forgotten how to walk, which strikes me
as both ludicrous and sad. Walking is one of the first activities we
learn to do as children and it should be something we continue to do
through out our lives. Walking is perhaps the most natural state for
humans. We evolved walking. Walking to gather food, walking to
trade with neighbouring tribes, walking for social gatherings,
walking to meet a mate. Walking has given us, from our very first
teetering steps as a toddler, the freedom to explore our
environment, the ability to go somewhere different and see something
new. Walking defines us.
The more I travel, however, the more I
see how people have forgotten how to walk. People drive ridiculously
short distances - I mean, 100 metres to the toilet or the water tank,
ridiculous. And, it's not just the older folks who drive instead of
walk. The younger crowd too drives when they can walk or, more
likely, sits hunched over a keyboard in a virtual world. This is no
way to live. We must start to walk again. Slowly and perhaps not
far at first, but steadily walking further and faster. At some
point, if only a person would keep walking they would reach that
nirvana like state where instead of simply walking one runs, bounding
down the trail for sheer joy of being alive.
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