Button Grass and Bogs
We expected a
heavy dew and wet tent in the morning from a cold night camped close
by the tarn, but, when we got up before dawn, the tent was relatively
dry. We ate, drank our usual litre of coffee, packed up, and were
climbing back up to Lightening Ridge on a wet track by 8 am. The
tents of the other walkers were scattered about the many small lakes
in this area and we wondered how early other parties would start
walking.
It was a beautiful
morning on Lightening Ridge with the rising sun casting long golden
shadows. At this south end, Lightening Bridge is broad and covered
with heath and spongy alpine vegetation. At the very southern end,
Mount Sarah Jane rises 300 metres above another small unnamed tarn.
The track descends into prickly scrub and I realized how scratched my
legs were from the day before as we pushed through. We lost the
track as it climbed out of thick scrub to the open spongy meadow
below Mount Sarah Jane, but, soon found it again and walked along
until we were at a small gap on the south end of Mount Sarah Jane
where we could look 600 metres down to elongated Lake Judd and the
massive Lake Pedder.
We were two hours
to this point and stopped for a short break. Below us we could see
the great button grass plains through which the Anne River runs and
we thought how good it was that there would be a decent track (so we
thought) across this flood plain which would otherwise be desperate
to walk. Expectations.
Mount Sarah Jane
Any track that
descends 600 metres in just over 1.5 kilometres is bound to be
painful and this one was no exception. Again, the track has never
been cut or constructed, merely walked in by the passage of many
hikers, and, as we descended the vegetation on each side of the track
got denser and we got knocked about from side to side like balls in
an old pin-ball machine. The track was running with water which was
not a huge problem on the rocky ground but as we got lower the rock
base gave way to mud, large spreading mud puddles through which we
slipped and slid trying to stay on our feet.
Where the track
runs close by the Anne River, we lost it again as it veered away from
the river through dense mats of stringy and straggly trees. We
walked south over squelching button grass until we found it again but
walking on the button grass was almost easier than walking on the
track. I'd be hard pressed to say whether the track was a stream, a
river, a mud bog or all three. In places, the water was ankle deep
and the base firm enough to walk on, in others, there were knee deep
sections, and yet others were just long stretches of sucking mud. We
soon came to distinguish those sections through which you should not
attempt to walk lest you be sucked in to your hips. These had a
slurry like appearance and, if you happened to step in one by
accident and went up to your knee, you would almost over-balance and
fall flat on your face or back as you tried to pull your leg out.
The whole experience was strangely reminiscent of skiing on facetted
snow in the Rockies.
On the track down to the Button Grass plains
Time passed, and
soon we had been walking three hours, then four, then five. We had
some vague recollection of our track notes saying something about the
"maintained Lake Judd trail" and kept hoping the walking
would improve. At around the five hour mark we finally strolled onto
some overgrown boardwalk and, for about 750 metres we had a decent
trail along which we could stretch out our stride for the first time
in three days. This did not last, however, and once we were across
the suspension bridge over the Anne River all track work evaporated
and we were back to mud bog walking. From a small rise above the
Anne River, we finally saw the road, still almost two kilometres
distant, but now easily within reach. Six hours after starting this
"easy walk out" we finally paced out onto the road.
Expectations.
This is when we
got super lucky and were glad we had pressed on without any breaks as
a group of hikers who had walked into Lake Judd were just preparing
to leave and gave Doug a lift the nine kilometres along the road to
Condominium Creek. I boiled water for tea while Doug retrieved the
vehicles, and, half an hour after we started driving the rain began.
Expectations.
Part Five.
Part Five.
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