Here's a couple of short reports from
outings nearby to our house-sit as I gather breath for another
resounding rant. First, a visit to what must surely be Hobart's most
popular climbing area – Waterworks. We'd been planning to visit
Waterworks for a while but we needed to wait for some warmer sunny
weather – it's the dead of winter down here in Tassie and it gets
cold – and a time when it was not overrun with other climbers. You
see, Waterworks is Hobart's most popular climbing area, not because
it has fantastic climbing, but because it has safe climbing,
something that is sorely lacking in Australia.
Australian climbing is about 30 to 40
years behind climbing in other countries and the climbing community
on this small island is still stuck firmly in the middle of the “bolt
wars” which played out in Canada in the 80's and are now almost
forgotten. Hard routes are slowly getting bolted, but easy or
moderate routes remain scary, run-out affairs where certain death
will result should you fall. Occasionally, a carrot bolt (yes, that
is as bad as it sounds) might offer one semi-solid piece of
protection between the climber and the ground, but, in many
instances, even that dubious protection is missing. And, guess what,
most people do not want a near death experience every time they go
out to climb a few pitches.
Climbing on U bolts at Waterworks
So, Waterworks, with a half dozen or
more bolted routes under 20 is very popular. Any area with easy to
moderate climbing and solid protection (particularly if it is bolted)
will be popular. Evidence the popularity of the classic routes at
Mount Arapiles many of which are easy rambles but offer solid natural
protection.
But, I'm ranting instead of reporting.
We finally had a not weekend day with a warm forecast and, the
Tasmanian University Climbing Club (10 minutes walk from Waterworks)
did not seem to be streaming out in full force, so we drove across
Hobart (much easier than it sounds as Hobart is a small city) and
climbed at Waterworks. And, the climbing is fine. Not great. It
is, after all, merely an old quarry in the suburbs, but, you can have
a fun few hours with just a half dozen quick draws and a rope, and,
need not fear death or mortal injury.
Storm clouds over Five Mile Beach
A couple of days later, we drove
through Sorell to Seven Mile Beach Protected Area where an eight
kilometre long spit of land divides Pittwater from Frederick Henry
Bay. Doug dropped me off at Five Mile Beach (this is the estuary
side of the sand spit) and I started walking east, while Doug drove
to Seven Mile Beach (the ocean side of the sand spit) and also began
walking east. This was another one of those walks where we didn't
quite cross paths. A rising tide forced me off Five Mile Beach onto
the inland track, while Doug was coming around the eastern sand spit
and so we missed each other. I walked west along Seven Mile Beach
while Doug was also walking west along Five Mile Beach.
Selfie silhouette
Ten minutes
away from either parking lot, the beach on either side (that is, Five
Mile and Seven Mile) was empty of people. A strong and strangely
warm north wind was blowing, there were fantastic cloud formations
and loads of beautiful shells on Seven Mile Beach. The only really
bizarre thing I encountered was a naked runner coming along Seven
Mile Beach. The dude was clearly not just into barefoot running but
also bare-arsed running.
Deserted Five Mile Beach
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