Preamble:
You would think with the Covid shutdown
I would have plenty of time to get my blog up to date, but I don't.
I seem to have as many things as ever to do, however, I am slowly
plugging through my photos from our "return to Canada trip"
in 2019. The latest photos are from a three day trip in the
mountainous area around the head of Downton Creek.
Our good friend, fellow mountain
traveller and chief engineer of the incomparable Bivouac.com site,
Robin T, recommended the area as a few years prior with a group of
friends, they had a done a traverse through the area linking one
alpine access trail to another and camping in the high alpine among a
series of beautiful alpine lakes and tarns.
The kicker for us was that we had a two
wheel drive minivan to ease up and down BC's notoriously rough
logging roads. If we were able to get about 8 kilometres up Downton
Creek FSR we would minimise our road walking and could do a similar
trip to Robin's three day adventure.
Saddlebag Lakes and Peak:
We drove up from Vancouver the
afternoon before. It is a longish drive, past Squamish and Whistler
and up the Duffy Lake Road - scene of much winter ski touring - to a
somewhat rickety bridge over Cayoosh Creek which in Australia would
be a full blown river but in Canada is a mere rivulet. After a bush
camp along the Duffy Lake Road, we started up Downton Creek in the
early morning, slowly grinding the minivan up the rough road.
Happily we made it to kilometre nine,
which was just a few hundred metres of the track to Saddlebag Lakes.
Track is a bit of a stretch for this rough foot pad as, unlike the
Holly Lake trail, further up Downton Creek which gets a fair bit of
foot traffic, Saddlebag Lakes trail is infrequently travelled and in
much poorer condition.
It is important to note that this is
not actually a built trail, just a roughly flagged route from which
all the flags have long since disappeared. However, by BC standards
it is a pretty reasonable access as it does not suffer from kilometre
long mud bogs, overly steep and eroded terrain, thick and
impenetrable Devils Club or any of the other dozen or more challenges
common to other BC access routes.
Basically, the route runs up the south
side of a creek that drains Saddlebag Lake starting at 4,500 feet and
reaching Saddlebag Lakes at around 7,200 feet. It is not overly
steep, but there is a fair bit of crawling over and under fallen
trees, a couple of areas of steep scree beside the rushing creek
where it is good not to lose balance, and some clambering around
avalanche debris. In a number of places we had to remove our packs
to crawl under trees so overall, it was pretty slow going.
After about 3 kilometres and a bit over
2,000 feet of gain the trail disappears in an alpine basin. From
here you can head west to a small tarn under some peaks, or curve
east and then north around a big headwall and scramble up beside
Saddlebag Creek to emerge in a gorgeous alpine area near the two
large Saddlebag Lakes. This took us about four hours and we spent a
bit of time finding a really excellent campsite, although there are
literally thousands to choose from.
Our plan was to climb Mount Seton, at
just under 9,400 feet, the highest peak in this area and we had a
rough route description from Robin which said to scramble up beside a
waterfall. Casting about, we saw a waterfall coming down from a peak
to our northeast and somehow decided this was Seton Peak. I am not
exactly sure why this made sense to us as we had a map and compass,
but our mountain navigation was certainly a bit rusty as the peak we
picked out as Seton was actually Saddlebag, at just over 9,200 feet,
about 150 feet lower than Seton.
These are all unofficial names and,
such is the immense number of Canadian mountains, this whole large
ridge system covering many square kilometres has no officially named
peaks at all. On this northern side of Downton Creek, the peaks are
almost entirely loose and rubbly. To the south of Downton Creek the
peaks are of firmer granitic type rock and a few have been climbed
via technical routes.
In any event, we made camp, brewed up
some tea and then packed some emergency gear for our scramble up
Saddlebag Peak. In truth, the route looked gruesome. Exceedingly
steep and very, very loose. We crossed the egress of Saddlebag Lakes
and made some reasonable progress for a couple of hundred feet up
firmer talus but then found ourselves grovelling up extremely steep
and loose, shattered rubble. After a fair bit of hard scrabble, we
traversed into a snow gully and kicked steps up finally coming out on
lower angled terrain but still some 700 or 800 feet from the summit.
The last part was merely a grind over
shattered rock and after something over an hour we arrived at the
summit. There were showers around and it was cold so we put on all
our warm gear and rain gear. Looking at the view, we were somewhat
perplexed that we were apparently lower than the peak some two
kilometres along the ridge to the west although we thought we were on
the highest peak.
However, rain and graupel were coming
so we hurried down leaving this mystery to ponder later. At the tent
it was drizzly and cold. I made dinner and we hunkered down for a
night of wind and rain. Puzzling over the map more carefully in the
tent we realised we had climbed Saddlebag not Seton.
Skimka Peak and Statimcets Meadow:
We felt really
lucky to wake to clear skies and we packed up camp and began our
traverse over towards Holly Lake. There are countless ways this
could be achieved. Robin's group had traversed over the west side of
the ridge system dropping down to tree line again, but we decided to
stay higher.
Leaving Saddlebag
Lakes we hiked up onto the east ridge of Trilateral Peak and by
staying high traversed meadow down to a small tarn. We then walked
up a snow gully to a col between Trilateral and Skimka to a narrow
windblown ridge. The north ridge of Skimka looked steep and had a
remnant cornice at the top but it was not too bad going up to the
cornice and Doug kicked some good steps through the vertical snow and
we merely had to stroll southeast to reach the summit of Skimka.
We found a
somewhat sheltered spot for lunch and enjoyed the view while deciding
on our route ahead. Our original plan had been to continue along the
ridge but there were many rotten gendarmes along the way that looked
nasty to pass so we decided instead to drop down lower angled terrain
and turn a prominent easterly ridge around 7,000 feet and then stroll
up meadow to find a campsite.
This was mostly
straightforward apart from a couple of grovelly steep bits and we
found ourselves in an easy and pleasant draw that provided delightful
walking up to a series of small tarns under the southeast face of
Statimcets.
We spent some time
again finding the perfect campsite and then set up camp and made a
brew. Doug spent the rest of the day reading in the sun. The views
were absolutely stupendous and it would be hard to not enjoy any time
spent in this glorious location. I went off wandering and made my
way to a bigger tarn on the south side of Fawlty Tower and then
looped back to camp under the face of Statimcets. It was a glorious
evening, warm and calm, and we sat outside until the mosquitoes made
life unpleasant.
Statimcets and Holly Lake Trail:
Statimcets was an
easy scramble from the east and we spent a long time on the summit
admiring the peaks and the view. The air was clear and we could see
all the way to Joffre Peak, very distinguishable by the big scar from
the recent major rockfall event. To descend, we walked down the
south ridge and got onto a good snow gully which made for an easy and
pleasant descent back to camp.
After eating and
drinking at camp, we packed up and meandered south down alplands and
talus to intersect the Holly Lake trail. A better route would have
been to angle south from camp and pick up the top end of the trail as
we did have to descend some steep boulders and talus. Holly Lake
trail is popular and in good shape and we were soon striding along
following a creek downhill to reach the upper end of Downton Creek
FSR. We had about a five kilometre walk down the logging road back
to our car which was hard on the feet and knees. Finding the minivan
with four fully inflated tires was a bonus, and then the slow drive
out.
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