This is the map I should have had for paddling around Lake Illawarra because neither the nautical chart nor the topographic map reveal how shallow Lake Illawarra is. It is a big lake, almost 10 kilometres long from end to end, but the average depth is only 1.9 metres and at low tide, large areas of the lake are too shallow even for a kayak to float. That makes me 0 for 2 with maps on the women’s paddle trip out of Windang, but, in my defence, one map was simply lost in the bowels of my car.
Our plan had been to convene at Windang where the local council runs a very nice caravan park fronting Lake Illawarra on one side and Windang Beach on the other on Sunday evening preparatory to three days paddling. It’s the second women’s trip I had organised, the first was in February 2023 and we had some challenging conditions, northerly, southerly, rain, sun. The full gamut.
It’s always a challenge finding a suitable location. Ideally, we would cruise along the coast carrying our gear and making beach or bush camps giving a short few days trip the feeling of “expedition paddling.” As a side note, I dislike the term “expedition paddling.” It always seems a bit of an overstatement when you are off for 5 or 7 days along a familiar bit of coast with the ice-cream shop within easy strolling distance. Whatever you call it, coastal cruising or expedition paddling, there is always the stealth camping, where you feel a tiny bit criminal, and, it’s very hard on the south coast to find a good place to land and camp without encountering at least some surf. I don’t mind surf landings, they get easier and easier with practice, but I know that some people really don’t like them and, truthfully, they are the one hazard of sea kayaking that is hard to avoid. You can always detour around bommies and gauntlets; surf landings not so much. Additionally, when the trip is booked in advance, the weather can be a fickle creature. You might get stellar paddling weather or terrifying conditions to challenge an expert.
Windang was a good choice for a base for three days paddling. Far enough north to be out of the area where I frequently paddle but not too long a drive and, accessible to women from the north, the west and the south. My plan was to meet Monday morning for our first paddle, spend two nights at Windang, for three days paddling and two days accommodation. I sleep better at home! But, one of my friends rightly pointed out that an early start might be good on Monday morning as December weather commonly features the standard summer northeasterly winds which can be quite strong. This seemed a very good point and, if we all met on Sunday night, we could discuss the next day’s paddling in person thus making consensus decision making much easier. There is a time and place for autocracy – during rescues for example – but consensus decision making seems better most of the time. Not only is it not my business to tell you what to do, the converse is true, and risk is individual and should not be forced on anyone.
There was, however, a big accident on the highway heading north which resulted in an eight hour road closure so only four of us made it to Windang on Sunday evening (and the fourth was not paddling due to an injury). I had specifically taken my laptop computer along to enable the democratic process. Not only do I have all the marine charts and topographic maps for NSW on my laptop, but we would be able to look at the forecast together and avoid the inevitable “my forecast” debate. So, instead of sitting around a table deciding on the following days paddle, we had to make multiple telephone calls to talk with the people not in attendance.
Monday the forecast was for the standard summer northeasterly although I will say the wind arrived later and with less intensity than normal for a summer’s day. But, the land had cooled a lot over the previous few days and without hot land to draw the onshore breeze a lower than normal northeasterly is not unexpected. We decided to paddle one way from Windang to Kiama. The dreaded car shuttle. I avoid these as much as possible. I’d rather paddle than drive, but sometimes with some groups they make sense and this was one of those times.
It was a pleasant and uneventful paddle. Out Tom Thumb entrance at Windang – there must be a story behind that name – past Windang Island (not really an island) and south to Bushranger Bay. I had forgotten that Bushranger Bay is all rock with no sand to land. I had checked the imagery before this trip but it is so blurry that the grey rocks could be mistaken for grey sand. Bushranger Bay is sheltered, once you paddle in through the reasonably narrow mouth, but landing is difficult and would require lifting boats onto rocks while staggering across slippery seaweed covered reef. The sort of place where someone could easily take a tumble and smash either themselves or the kayak, or even both. We stood in the water instead.
What we should have done is paddle into Maloneys Bay on the south side of Bass Point. Although this bay looks exposed to the southeasterly swell, it actually provides an easy landing. The beach you land on faces east and a deep water channel into a sheltered bay means the landing is safe and easy.
That evening, the entire group was at Windang which meant we could all look at the forecast and the maps together. The forecast, which had been stable for a number of days (always makes the forecast a bit more trustworthy in my opinion) was for southerly winds increasing early in the morning to reach 20 knots by 9 or 10 am. Twenty knots is a pretty strong wind and, even though wind is measured on a ratio scale, the effect on the paddler is not linear. 20 knots with an experienced group on a downwind run can be great fun, but rescues become difficult and paddling in these conditions can feel like an “every man for themselves” scenario. It’s tempting, when you really want to do something to adopt the “Barney world view” where you distort reality to fit your purpose. This is how folks get caught in avalanches, and exactly how I have been caught myself. If you are honest, smart and reflective (it probably takes all three) you learn that you should hope for the best but plan for the worst. A 20 knot wind may not eventuate, but you should be prepared nonetheless.
Only one paddler was keen for an outing on the ocean in the forecast conditions, the rest of us were happy to paddle around the lake. I rarely paddle on enclosed water, which made a lake paddle on sunny day a treat for me. By the time we started paddling, it was actually quite windy, but we had a really nice paddle around three small islands in Lake Illawarra although the low tide and blustery wind stymied a longer paddle. I embarrassed myself by doing a rather poor rolling session after lunch – my worst ever as I missed quite a few rolls when I normally never miss any! Sometimes, the brain gets in the way of performance and all that thinking about things makes them worse. It was only when I came ashore at the end that I noticed that my two piece paddle was spinning around the joiner which had a detrimental effect on the climbing angle of my blade. However, I think my head was coming up as well.
Our final paddle day, we toured around the Five Islands off Wollongong launching from Fishermans Beach. This is a good spot to launch from as it is very sheltered with a gentle spilling wave, but the difficulty is finding a good parking spot without a desperate carry. At the north end, a long sloping ramp descends to the beach. Great for kayak trolleys but the only parking is on-street. The south end has a spacious car park but descent to the beach is via a narrow walkway and a long set of steps. We did the south end option, which meant K and I had to carry all four kayaks down to the beach while also lifting them completely over our heads to negotiate the narrow walkway lined by high hand rails. Good stability training but a bit tedious!
The additional benefit of launching south of Port Kembla Harbour is that you stay away from the main shipping area where big container ships come and go. K had her radio tuned to the appropriate station and was monitoring traffic, and, one large container ship did exit the harbour while we were paddling but the container ships head north not south so the islands can be explored without worrying about becoming a hood ornament on a container ship.