On the last day of 2013, Doug and I
launched our sea kayaks into the muddy fast flowing waters of the
Murrumbidgee River and, over 3.5 days, paddled 130 km down the
Murrumbidgee River from Gundagai to Wagga Wagga. It was an iconic
Australian summer trip, paddling through the empty, dry grasslands,
searing hot in the dead heat of the day, but alive with kangaroos and
birds morning and night. The river was fast flowing and it was easy
to paddle 10 km/hour. We camped in the grasslands above the river or
on sandy river-side beaches, paddling in the morning, and resting
under huge river gums in the afternoon when the sun was merciless.
I had always wanted to do another one
of these river trips. The days are easy, almost routine, you pack
the kayak, push out into the river, paddle downstream, swim when it
gets too hot, pull off in the afternoon on to a river beach to set up
camp. The metronomic regularity of each day makes it easy to settle
into a contemplative state.
Murray River sunset
The Murray River is the third longest
navigable river in the world, and runs from the Great Dividing Range
in Victoria, through NSW to flow into the Southern Ocean at Goolwa in
South Australia. Many people have paddled the entire length of the
river, a journey measured in weeks rather than days. Our plan was to
paddle 275 km from Yarrawonga to Echuca. Bus transport is easy
between these two towns and almost all the land on either side of the
river is protected in some kind of park or reserve.
Based on other people's notes and our
own experience on the Murrumbidgee River, we thought we would average
8 to 10 km/hour which would make covering 40 to 50 km along the river
each day quite reasonable. Accordingly we planned for seven days on
the river, but secretly, we both thought we would reach Echuca in six
days. We soon, however, calculated our average speed at only about 6
km/hour, so some days in the kayak felt quite long. Our goal each
day was to paddle 40 km. Most days we reached or exceeded that
distance, but two days, we found good camps at 36 km, and, as we had
paddled over 40 km on several days, our last day into Echuca was only
24 km.
We quickly got into the habit of taking
a break every two hours. Or, I should say, I got into that habit.
Doug travels faster than me and he would jump out of the boat quite
frequently when he got a distance ahead. I, however, limited myself
to my allotted bum breaks. The truth is, after about two hours in my
kayak anywhere, I am getting twitchy to get out, and, had I got out
and rested my aching butt every time I really wanted to, my average
speed would have been far slower than 6 km/hour.
Typical encampment
There are camps everywhere, but, if you
want to avoid bogan ghetto camps, it pays to choose wisely. Our
tactic was to locate areas on the map around our required km marker
that had some prospect of a sandy beach (sweeping bend), no road
access shown on the map (although inevitably there was), and, if
possible near private land which we hoped might restrict access
somewhat. In the end, we were lucky or had good judgement (perhaps a
combination of both) as we had camps by ourselves every night even
Saturday night. We also always had a nearby back-up camp should
bogans arrive and, finally, we did not put the tent up until about
8.00 pm. The river was very busy on Saturday, and even busier on
Sunday when we paddled through Cobram, but was much quieter through
the week. Near Cobram, the jet boats with skiers/boarders were
appalling as, they not only drive up and down the same 200 metre
section of river at full speed, but feel compelled to blast boy band
music at full volume as well.
Traffic and camps are heaviest near the
river side towns and at beaches, but there are vehicle camps along
the entire river. Many of these, particularly those in premier
locations (close to town - beer and pies, with sandy beaches) are
ghettos of junker caravans, old buses, and tattered tents. These are
obviously left set up for much, if not all of the year. When
occupied, they represent your worst nightmare. People have brought
all manner of supplies with them including, but not limited to,
electric lights hanging in trees, couches, lounge chairs, jetties,
personal moorings, wheelie bins. Of course, there are the usual
toilet and shower tents, annexes, gazeboes, dining settings,
barbeques. On the water front are $70K jet boats, jet skis,
innumerable tinnies, and, very, very occasionally (we saw perhaps
five on the entire river) plastic kayaks. The crowds thin
considerably once you pass Ulupna Island and paddle through the
Barmah forests, and do not increase again until you approach Ecucha
where house-boats crowd the river banks for kilometres.
The scenery is more or less the same
for the entire distance. The slowly moving river, turning from green
to brown as you move downstream. The river red gums, some massively
large, others smaller but still stately. Sandy beaches on sweeping
bends which get less frequent as you travel downstream. Dry leads
now cracked with mud where the river once ran. Sulfur crested
cockatoos screech from 4 am until about 9 am when they doze for the
day, only issuing mild chirps, until they reawaken around 5.00 pm and
screech until sunset. Their raucous cries sound like someone saying
"I'm here, where are you?" Behind their background roar,
you can just hear other birds. At night, the sounds of the bush are
deafening. Boobook owls call with their distinctive "mo-poke"
virtually non-stop. Kangaroos emerge and thump through the bush, male
koalas growl like outsized chainsaws, cicadas thrum, fish jump, birds
splash, and a hundred other animals crawl out of the bush and begin
their nightly activities.
Typical river paddling
We used Murray River Access Maps for
this trip. You can buy them for about $8 each at local tourist
information centres and they purport to show "river beaches,
fishing, boating, camping, picnic areas." They are not
perfectly accurate as many of the places shown without roads actually
have road access. In fact, it is best to assume road access to the
entire length of the river. They do, however, make it easy to keep
track of where you are, and to find likely campsites. The maps mark
the river kilometres starting from 0 at the river mouth at Goolya.
Along the river itself, there are sporadic markers. Sometimes we
would see six or seven in a day, sometimes only one or two.
Day One: Yarrawonga Weir to 1944 km
It is easy to launch from the boat
ramp/small beach just below Yarrawonga weir. A group from a Victoria
canoe club was hanging about on the small beach near the boat ramp as
we were getting ready to go waiting until it was their turn to
participate in a canoe/kayak race to Cobram. They had a long four
person boat and one woman kept telling us how it would only take them
two days to paddle from Yarrawonga to Ecucha instead of six or seven
as we were doing. Another guy, who had paddled the entire Murray
River was giving us tips on where to camp, buy pies, and stock up on
water. Eventually, they set off, and we left soon after.
We quickly settled into a paddling
routine, and plugged away steadily all day. As we paddled
downstream, we began to get some idea of the extent of bush camping
along the Murray, but, the full impact did not strike us until a day
or two later when the camps emptied out after the weekend. By the
time we had paddled 200 km, we thought nothing would surprise us,
until we saw someone had brought in their own jetty!
The river banks were lined with
fishermen and unhealthy looking people sitting, frequently one and
the same. At one point, a group of wags began making what they
thought were hysterically funny jokes about how far we were behind
the other kayaks (the kayak racers). I can only imagine that all
kayakers look the same to "sitters", just as all sitters
sitting look the same to us.
As we approached the 40 km mark we
began looking for a camp. We had previously located a small section
of national park on the map that was surrounded by private land and
we found a good beach campsite here. There was a vehicle track, even
though none was shown on the map, but the area did not appear to get
a lot of traffic.
Kayak racers starting off from Yarrawonga
Day 2: 1944 to 1904 beach
Today we passed through Cobram and the
river leading up to it was insanely busy with annoying jet boats
blasting boy band music at full volume. We topped up our water
supply and deposited garbage at Thompsons Beach downstream of the
bridge. Once we passed Cobram, the river got noticeably quieter. We
had lunch at a picnic bench at Scotts Beach (upstream of Cobram)
although all the picnic benches were in the sun. The campers here
seemed a little different, perhaps backpackers doing some fruit
picking.
Once we got near our 40 km mark we
began looking for a camp. It was often hard to know how far to push
on as, if we passed a good camp and did not find one further on, we
would have to paddle upstream against the current. We had a few
likely locations picked out and ended up stopping at 1904 beach at
1904 km - duh. There was a road, of course, even though none was
shown on the map. We had a good beach with sand and a shady spot to
camp, although some blockhead had taken a dump right in the middle of
the access track behind the beach. At this point we worked out what
all the long metal bits we kept seeing on beaches were - the remnants
of burned fold-up chairs which must, at some point, give out beneath
the butts of particularly large bogans, which then get tossed onto
the fire.
I went for a walk in the evening and
discovered that the road to our camp was even signed "1904
beach" so it was a bit inexplicable that no-one was there. A
few nearby camps were abandoned but some nearby campers also stayed
over Sunday night. The usual nightly din and we used the fly again
but the night was warmer than previous.
Beach camp
Day 3: 1904 beach to Thornley Beach
Today was much quieter on the river,
few boats, no jet boats or jet skis and very peaceful paddling. It
is easy to fall into a contemplative groove just paddling steadily
down river. We had an early lunch at Tocumwal and met Bill Robinson,
his granddaughter (age 10), family friend, Ben, and his daughter (age
6) as they were launching their boats. Bill has paddled the Murray
River more times than anyone else and has also paddled across Bass
Strait and undoubtedly had many other fine adventures. He is 70
years young and one of those people you could talk to for hours. He
knows all about the Murray River, the history, the geography, the
wildlife. A fascinating fellow who restored our faith in human kind.
They were paddling to Barmah in three days in two double kayaks.
As usual, we had tea, got water,
dropped off garbage and then continued down river until we had done
our requisite 40 km. Again we picked a campsite near private land
with no road marked and, again there was a road but no other campers.
Unfortunately, there was another pile of human shit up behind the
beach and the usual burned folding chairs, but we hung out down at
the beach where things were less grubby. A very pleasant gentleman
who lives nearby walked down (apparently he does so every day) and we
chatted with him for a while. There were lots of koalas around this
camp and it was a particularly noisy night. The temperature was
definitely heating up so we didn't walk until a bit later on when it
got cooler and we had a swim to cool off before bed. No need for the
fly overnight.
Around 6.30 pm, just as an obnoxious
jet skier was coming past repeatedly, Bill and family paddled past
heading a further 6 km downstream. We waved hello as they went by.
We passed 100 km on the river today which feels like a bit of a
milestone as the days are longer than we had imagined.
Day 4: Thornley Beach to The Gulf
A quiet and peaceful day with no towns,
few people or camps. The river runs through Barmah forest and banks
lined with river red gums. The water is getting muddier and there
are no beaches along this stretch. At 1821 km, 4 km shy of our goal
of 40 km, we reach The Gulf day use and camping area and pull into a
boat ramp. This is one of the nicest spots we have seen along the
river so far. It is a Parks Victoria site and so is relatively clean
and not beaten up like the bush camps. There are bollards every
where preventing vehicles from driving to the banks of the river so
there is still some growing vegetation. A small camping area is
situated back from the water and some bogans have left a pile of
garbage, mostly empty beer cans, in a half burnt out campfire.
While we are mulling over stopping for
the night a truck drives up and a bee-keeper gets out. We get to
talking and it turns out he paddled the river with two friends on
Melbourne Cup weekend when it was, I quote, "bank to bank
bogans." He has come to check on, and ultimately move his bees
which have been feeding on flowering river red gums but are now
getting hungry. After night fall he moves the hives. We waffle for
a while and then decide to stay. There is a small beach directly
opposite and we figure we can escape to it should bogans arrive, but,
with vehicle access to the water blocked by bollards, we feel pretty
safe.
I go for a walk before dinner and find
a series of bush camps along the river banks all of which are filthy
with human excrement and toilet paper. It is quite confronting.
When I get back, the bees are agitated and we have to move picnic
tables to avoid them. Moving picnic tables at a couple of the
campsites was quite common as we would initially pick a shady table
then the sun would move and it would get blisteringly hot. The boat
ramp provided handy swimming as the river and banks are now quite
muddy. No bogans arrive and we have the place to ourselves all
night.
Day 5: The Gulf to Barmah Lakes
campground
The river is moving a bit faster but we
are not. We continue plugging along at our 6 km/hour pace having
breaks every two hours. As we finished a bit earlier yesterday I
feel fresher today. The river is very quiet again and peaceful.
Around lunch time, we arrive at Picnic Point where there is a caravan
park and also a public park. Bill and family are here and we enjoy
chatting with them over lunch. As soon as I mention the word "bogan"
we all know we are members of the same tribe and Bill starts talking
about the "fat young unhealthy looking men sitting along the
river banks drinking." At one point, Ben says "he is
exaggerating" but we all know that Bill is not. The girls are
having a good time and Bill talks about how this is "not just a
paddling trip, it is a communication of core values."
Bill leaves first and then we pack up
our lunch things and continue down the river. Past Picnic Point, the
river gets quite narrow and travels faster between overhanging
willows. It is never dangerous or difficult as any trees are easily
avoided. We start looking for a camp as we are paddling through "The
Narrows" which is a straight stretch of river between Moira and
Barmah Lakes (not visible from the river) but the banks are steep and
the forest thick. Finally, when we are feeling tired, we come out at
Barmah Lakes campground, another Victoria Parks camp. Again, this is
a nice clean camp, this time with toilet, day use area and boat ramp.
It does not take long to decide to stay as it is 5.30 pm. We pull
the boats up just by the mouth of Barmah Lakes and find a picnic
bench in the shade. There are bollards again so the vegetation is
not as destroyed as the bush camps but this is very dry country and
little grows apart from river red gums. The ground is baked so hard
I have to pound the tent pegs in with a large stick/small log.
Before dinner I wander around and
finally end up at the Dharnya Centre (interpretive centre) which
looks as if it is mainly for teaching. There are some old muster
yards, and a couple of interpretive walks but I have to get back to
make dinner as it is nearly dark. When the sun goes down the
mosquitoes come out. Our first and only camp where the insects were
really bad. We have a swim before getting in the tent but the water
is very shallow and warm and you must wade out through mud for 10
metres to get wet. The bush is strangely quiet overnight although
there are many kangaroos and some raptors.
We passed 200 km on the river today
and, unlike 100 km, which felt like a big achievement, we just drift
past 200 barely noticing.
Day 6: The Gulf to km 1736
The river widens again past Barmah
Lakes, slows and becomes more domesticated as there are large
stretches of private land intermittently along both banks. We find
Bill and family still at camp about 3 km downstream where there is a
large bush camp with easy access for kayaks. They are not leaving
until 11 am as it is their last day and they need only paddle into
Barmah. We pull over and have a good long chat and get some ideas
for kayak modifications (half spray deck, Ridge Rest kayak seat).
After we have chatted for a while, it is time for us to go and we
paddle down river soon arriving at Barmah. We drop garbage and get a
little more water even though we should have enough. It is very hot,
however, and we need to drink a good amount.
Downstream from Barmah there is a lot
of private land apart from a narrow strip along the Victorian side of
the river. We do not want to camp to close to Ecucha as we figure it
will get very busy, so begin looking for camps around 1738 km. We
soon find a pretty good spot at 1736 km where there is a bit of sand
to pull out on and good shade up in the trees. It is the usual bush
camp with no road shown on the map but there is a road. It is too
hot to do anything but hang out in the shade. Swimming off the beach
requires some mud wading. When it gets a bit cooler I wander about
on the tracks by many other bush camps.
Day 7: 1736 km to Victoria Park, Echuca
As we continue down river the camps
quickly get busier so we made the right choice stopping relatively
early yesterday. Most camps now have ghettos although not all are
occupied, at least fully. There are a few waterski boats and jet
skis roaring up and down so we have to paddle along the margins of
the river and do not get full benefit from the current. It is too
dangerous, however, to be out in the main channel. When we get near
Echuca, the development increases, but, luckily, there are maximum
speeds on the river and we pass out of the water ski zone. We start
seeing house-boats moored along side the shore (including the
Executive house boat) and, as we come right into Echuca there are a
bunch of paddle steamers which, incredibly, appear to be still
burning wood! Our final stretch up to Victoria Park where we find a
good boat ramp to pull out at (other landing sites are all muddy) is
past many paddle steamers and then about a kilometre of house-boats
all lined up. One passes us towing a ski boat, the occupants are
obviously determined to use the most amount of fossil fuels while
expending the least amount of calories.
We pull in at Victoria Park into
oppressive heat (about 38C) and while Doug goes to retrieve the car,
I unpack all the gear. We have paddled 275 km and had not a single
bogan camp, an achievement, of which we feel justifiably proud.