It’s
three years since I last walked into the Budawangs. Well, that’s not quite factual as in 2023
we day walked to the top of Currockbilly Mountain – a highly
recommended trip – but the last time we walked into the Budawangs
and camped with the intention of hiking to the top of one of the
distinctive mesa type mountains was late 2021. The bushfire regrowth
on that trip was so bad that I all but gave up for a while on
Budawang trips. There’s type 2 fun and fun and there is very
little fun about bashing through regrowth at a maximum speed of half
a kilometre an hour and not getting a single view all day. Because
that is the thing with Budawang mountains, the tops can be as thickly
covered as the valleys holding entire multi-level ecosystems of
vegetation and even dense swamps.
Small waterfall off Mount Haughton
However, with some unexpected but welcome news of track clearing between The Vines area and the northern base of
Mount Haughton, we decided to walk in again with hopes of getting up
a peak or even two. Two would be be greedy and I’ve learnt not to
expect to satisfy such rapacity in the Budawangs. Sometimes a
successful trip is merely getting in and out without ripping your
gear to shreds or being lost in scrub for hours.
The view from the head of Styles Plains
Our plan was to walk in and camp at Styles Creek on the first day,
take the second day for “peak bagging” and walk out again on the
third day. If you look at the map, this sort of trip should be quite
possible in a single overnight trip as neither the distance nor the
elevation gain is great but that is where I have gone wrong a dozen
times in the past. Distance and elevation gain mean nothing when you
are pushing through dense scrub.
Quiltys Mountain from Styles Creek
Multiple old tracks converge on Styles valley: from the north and
west via Round Mountain Fire Trail (FT), from the south via Mount
Tarn, and from the north via either the Endrick River FT or the Red
Ground track. On this visit, we came in from the Endrick River FT
and Sassafras, a straight forward but somewhat foot-sore walk as
large rocks have been deposited on the FT and these make for weary
and hard walking. It may be that some people prefer the Red Ground
access which is slightly longer (a couple of kilometres) but the
track softer underfoot.
Sturgiss from the base of Haughton
In any event, apart from the hard rock of the Endrick River FT,
the walk is straight forward enough and we stopped for a lunch break
at Camp Rock. It was windy day and we had walked all this way in
synthetic puff jackets! After lunch, we descended down to the
rainforest near The Vines where it seems darker than ever under a
dense canopy. A short distance further along, the track is well
cleared as it heads southwest into Kilpatrick Creek. The next couple
of kilometres is tedious walking as there is prolific blow down
across the track necessitating scrambling up, over, and under large
trees which have fallen across the track. There is little sign of
any clearing and this section did not seem much better than our last
trip along here.
Eventually, however, the track climbs out of the creek along a
boggy section and a roughly cleared track leads south to the Hidden
Valley track. Walking along this slashed passage way, you get a
sense for the density of the regrowth as the vegetation beside the
track is dense as a wall. In 2021, this is where we spent a couple
of hours thrashing around trying to find any remnant track at all.
Now, apart from a few odd jogs in the track, the way is clear, but
the walking is not quick as the cleared brush is simply dropped onto
the track. Hidden Valley track, however, is obvious and soon enough
the cleared track sidled down easily to a wonderful campsite at
Styles Creek. There are a number of flat tent sites, a sitting area
with a few log bench seats and views to Mount Haugton and Hoddles
Castle Hill, the south end of Quiltys Mountain and the looming bulk
of Mount Sturgiss. Apart from the incessant wind, it was one of the
nicest – if not the best – campsites I’ve had in the Budawangs.
It was long past time for a big mug of tea and boiling water to
soak dinner. We wandered about a bit before dark and I even
entertained the idea of trying to find Styles Cave but with the short
days of mid-winter there was not sufficient time.
Styles Cave is up there somewhere
The next morning, after a very long time in the tent, I fetched
water in a pot and crawled back into tent and sleeping bag to make a
big jug of coffee for Doug and myself. Before 7:30 am, we were ready
to set off following a defined track east towards the south end of
Sturgiss Mountain. In a disappointingly short period of time, we
came to what seemed to be the end of the track and I contemplated
more bushwacking than originally intended, but, a little searching
around and we located the track where it jogged east and passed close
by Pagoda Rocks before crossing the head of the valley. I had seen
reports of a very boggy track across the Styles Plains in years past,
so Doug and I were carrying plastic “holey soles” to walk the
track if it was sodden in order to keep our shoes dry. It turned out
that we only needed to put these on for a short section where the
track crossed a deeper channel and was sodden for perhaps 100 metres.
Walking towards Mount Sturgiss
A mostly well slashed track climbed up to the base of Mount
Haughton and a large camping cave. These always seems so dusty to me
and I never realise the appeal, unless of course the rain is pitching
down. We left our holey soles on a rock at the base of Mount
Haughton and continued on a beaten pad around the east and then south
side of the mesa. This is the standard Budawang track, up and down
staying as close to the base of the cliffs as possible. At a couple
of locations we were diverted upwards scrambling through small passes
but these led only into thick scrub in passages between pagodas.
Caves at the base of Mount Haughton
About half way along the south side of Mount Haughton, the cliffs
break down and we found a pass between low cliffs up onto the
plateau. Burnt and twisted low trees were still pretty thick but we
were able to weave through them heading almost due west to where the
map indicates the high point lies. Quickly we reached a band of
swampy ground and extreme regrowth which we took turns pushing a path
through – the kind of vegetation that you must fling your entire
body at to make passage. Luckily, there was not too much of this and
we exited to the left in more open bush below a second band of
cliffs. Travelling north, we soon found a ledge system of ironstone
plates which we quickly scrambled up to reach mostly open slabs and
what I presume is the top of Mount Haughton.
Thick vegetation on the plateau of Mount Haughton
I presume, but I’m not sure. The latest topographic map has a
error with a dark contour (marked 900 metres) to the west of the 877
metre spot elevation. There is no such thing as from the spot
elevation, the ground slopes down towards Mount Hoddle. It was very
windy on top so we scuttled about until we found a sheltered location
looking off into Hollands Gorge which is almost 700 metres below.
From our location, there was a maze like system of pagodas to the
north. It is possible that a higher point lies that way, but if that
is true (the map is little help), the elevation difference would be a
matter of a few metres at most. Thick scrub lies throughout this
myriad of pagodas and finding a way through and up would be the work
of many, many hours.
Pagodas on Mount Haughton
We had lunch and pondered the possibility of ascending either
Mount Hoddle or Hoddles Castle Hill but were disabused of that notion
when we noted the amount of scrub between us and either of those
locations. Returning to camp was much quicker as we avoided all the
detours up possible passes and only rested for a short time under a
big roof at the last camping cave on Mount Haughton. Back at camp, I
made big mugs of tea and then followed a westward trending branch of
the track across into Styles plains. This was reasonably clear for a
distance but I suspect that the northern end on the east side of
Fosters Mountain could be a different story. We had intersected this track close to its junction with Round
Mountain FT in 2021 and the track was buried deep in acacia regrowth.
Sunset over Hoddles Castle Hill
We had another long night in the tent, although the wind did drop
but clear skies brought frost overnight so next morning I repeated my
winter camping ritual of getting up for a pot of water and then
returning to bed for a mug of coffee. The walk out was slightly
better than expected as we did the annoying rumba over and under the
blow down along Kilpatrick Creek in the morning while fresh rather
than in the afternoon. The rocky road out, however, was hard on the
feet and it was nice to reach the car after about five hours walking.
Hollands Gorge