As it turns out, we had typical Rockies
summer weather (bad), so we didn't get as much climbing as we had
hoped, but, we did alright.
The first day we hooked up with friends
who wanted a crag climbing day so we went to the Black Band area at
Tunnel Mountain. Easy approach (although it does feature the usual
loose Rockies scree trail to the base) and we managed to spend the
few hours that we had on the same section of wall which makes for
efficient climbing. The grades are easy, the bolts plentiful, and
the climbing pleasant if not spectacular.
Our second day we hiked up to Guides
Rock on Mount Corey and climbed Aftonroe. Officially this is nine
pitches but the climbing is all easy (nothing harder than 5.7) and
the pitches short so you can easily link pitches. Climbing easy
fully bolted multi-pitch routes on solid rock is great fun, and this
climb is well worth doing. After rappelling off, we climbed the two
pitch route Cheese Grater that is right by Aftonroe. Rated 5.8 and
5.6, the 5.6 pitch has harder moves than anything on Aftonroe, but
the rock is super clean and the bolts are adequate.
Back of the Lake was our third day, but
we got shut down early, by heavy rain and thunderstorms. I find the
climbing there steep and technical and the routes we did felt way
harder than any of the other climbs we had done grade for grade, but,
sometimes you just need to time to get used to different rock.
After a rest day, we went out and
climbed Beautiful Century on Nanny Goat. This climb is somewhere
between 6 and 8 pitches, depending on whether or not you link
pitches, and, has a spooky first pitch that you want to be solid on
to lead, as, if you fall in the run-out section before clipping the
anchor, you'll hit the ground from 20 metres up. I started up this
pitch then backed off and Doug finished it. Funny thing about
backing off, half the time, I realize I shouldn't have backed off,
and the other half of the time I realize backing off was smart. This
was one of those occasions when backing off was smart as a ground
fall from that height is gonna be bad.
Then, as it does in the Rockies in
summer, it started to rain....
Beautiful climbing on Aftonroe
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