After a couple of day walks in
Grampians National Park our Canadian friends seemed anxious to be off
on their bicycles again. Doug and I, who have never understood the
appeal of cycle touring, were perplexed, but prepared to be
supportive, although we had been looking forward to spending more
than two days with them. Sitting around casually at dinner on what
was supposed to be our last night together (coincidentally Doug's
51st birthday), we began discussing their cycle plans - which, at
least to non-bicycle tourers, looked remarkably uninteresting
(cycling through farmland to Wangaratta). One thing led to another,
and, as we had been extolling the marvels of Australian sea kayaking
for the last two days, plans suddenly changed rapidly and a potential
sea kayak trip was on the agenda if it was possible to rent a double
sea kayak in Victoria for R and M to paddle.
Now, of course, the best course of
action would have been to take a day to sort out such details as
where and when a kayak could rented, how we would transport it, where
we would paddle, and so forth. But, R is not the sort of person who
likes "sitting about", while I am the type of person who is
too much influenced by other people's emotions. Put these two
together and who have a somewhat impetuous plan quickly conceived and
just as quickly enacted.
Next morning, R and M were up early and
packed up ready to either begin cycling towards Wangaratta or begin
driving towards a sea kayak rental destination. Feeling somewhat
propelled along, Doug and I also packed up the caravan and we all
drove into Halls Gap where we could get mobile reception. Sea
kayaking is not a popular sport in Australia (despite the amazing
coastline that is conducive to self-propelled sea adventures) so
renting a double kayak in Victoria came down to one of two companies.
The first was in Melbourne and, of course, offered many challenges,
such as transporting three kayaks (our two singles and the rental
double) through heavy traffic. The second was in Bairnsdale near
Gippsland Lakes, and would prove logistically more simple, although
the actual kayaking would be less interesting. Later, we would also
discover that renting from Bairnsdale meant we got a much worse kayak
for a much higher price.
Paddling in Corner Inlet
Neither company answered the telephone
when we rang so we were forced to leave messages enquiring about
kayak rentals. In hindsight, this is completely expected as both
companies are relatively small and the owners could (were, in fact)
be out guiding kayak tours (usually school groups) not sitting around
the shop waiting for those telephone calls that never come. Again, I
should reiterate that the smart thing to do would have been to spend
the day planning a trip and awaiting a call back from both rental
companies. This would have allowed much more rational decision
making. Instead, however, we all somehow decided that we would go to
Wilsons Promontory for a couple of days hiking and work out the kayak
trip from there. Exactly how this was supposed to work, as I doubt
we would have mobile reception at Wilsons Promontory, is not exactly
clear to me in hindsight, but, at the time (and in haste) it seemed
like a good idea.
Doug and I had previously done sea
kayak trips around both Gippsland Lakes and Corner Inlet and either
of these seemed like a good destination for a sea kayak trip in
Victoria. Corner Inlet, of course, offers more interesting paddling,
but requires more careful planning as, despite all the islands
available for overnight camp sites, the large tidal range combined
with shallow water depths means that only some islands provide
suitable landing sites. A kayak trip to Corner Inlet would involve
renting not only a kayak but a trailer, and at least three trips into
the heart of Melbourne to pick up the kayak at the beginning of the
trip and drop it off at the end. Our caravan would need to be stored
somewhere and, if we had windy conditions, the paddling would be more
difficult for R and M. Gippsland Lakes, with smaller tides, and many
well appointed campsites is a much easier trip to manage
(particularly on short notice) but is much more developed and offers
somewhat less exciting paddling.
Black Swans Corner Inlet
It was nearly noon by the time we got
away on the (what turned out to be) long and somewhat harrowing drive
towards Wilsons Promontory. R and M's bicycles and gear was stuffed
into our caravan so that we could not access any food or drinks, so
we were forced to visit a grocery store in some small town along the
way to buy supplies for lunch which we barbequed at a nearby park.
Driving through Melbourne was stressful, tedious and slow as we
missed getting a toll-road (too much haste again) and had to sit
through heavy afternoon traffic in the suburbs. We eventually, after
getting lost a couple of times and having to visit yet another
grocery store (we had rushed off so precipitously that we did not
have much in the way of food), arrived at Lang Lang and a small,
quiet campground where we had stayed two summers ago. It was late,
we were all tired, and, as we barbequed a late dinner, another storm
blew in and it began to rain. Hardly an auspicious start.
The following morning, I cooked another
breakfast for four people in our small caravan and called the
Gippsland area kayak company getting hold of the owner, Brett, who
told me I could rent a double kayak if I were to pick it up the next
day between 10 am and noon. I had a poor mobile connection and
feeling pressed, agreed to these conditions. We could have got a
better kayak at a cheaper price from the Melbourne company, but, the
thought of driving back into Melbourne, renting a trailer, and
driving off towards Corner Inlet was all too much and the Gippsland
kayak rental seemed the best option. Suddenly, Wilsons Promontory
was off the agenda, and kayaking was on, in a hurry.
Soldier Crabs on the beach at Corner Inlet
We had another long drive from Lang
Lang (which was out of our way now that we were not going to Wilsons
Promontory) to Eagle Point (near Paynesville). Along the way we had
to stop at Sale to buy seven days of groceries for the trip, which
was relatively quick for Doug and I (who have done this many times
before) but much slower for R and M who had not (at least for many
years) and were unfamiliar with the lay-out of Australian grocery
stores. Doug was kept busy trying to find a caravan park where we
could camp for the night and launch from the next day as we could not
transport three boats at one time.
Wearily, we arrived at King Lake
Caravan Park (a rather strange establishment with mostly permanent
holiday caravans but clean amenities, cheap prices and easy water
access) at 3.30 pm for a late lunch. The afternoon was spent in a
flurry of activity packing up all the gear one needs for a week of
kayaking. It was another somewhat exhausting and somehow
unsatisfying day.
On Friday, Doug, R and M went into
Bairnsdale to pick up the kayak (and buy some more items R and M
thought they needed) while I shuttled loads down to the small beach
and packed up our single kayaks. At around 11.30 am, I was happy to
see our car returning with a large, heavy, beaten up, but at least
functional double kayak on top. Packing an unfamiliar kayak,
particularly when you are carrying seven days of food and water,
takes some time, and the first pack of the double kayak was not all
that efficient, but, by the next day, R had worked out an efficient
method for storing all their gear and things thereafter went much
faster and more smoothly. At 12. 45 pm, we launched the kayaks and
began paddling. That, however, is the subject of another blog post.
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