Fortescue Bay is beautiful; a crescent
moon of white sand backed by a stately eucalpytus forest, a tiny
haven on the east side of the Tasman Peninsula where a kayak can land
or a fishing boat seek shelter from the wild Tasman Sea which pounds
against the dolerite cliffs and towers off the outer coast. We had
come to paddle east to Cape Hauy to see the Totem Pole, Mitre Rock
and The Lanterns. This coastline is some of the most spectacular in
Australia, paddling out into the rolling swell and swirling currents
always feels like an adventure.
Sheltered and beautiful, Fortescue Bay
Now that spring is creeping over
Tasmania, the sun rises early and Doug and I were paddling east from
the beach at Fortescue Bay soon after 8 am. It is only four
kilometres to Cape Hauy and I was surprised at how soon the really
scenic paddling starts. The first kilometre follows a low rocky
shoreline, but, at the first headland to the east, the cliffs begin
growing taller, our boats began to roll up and down on the swell, the
great kelp forests began to spread across the ocean surface, and, on
a small sloping rock ledge under dolerite cliffs we came upon our
first cluster of resting fur seals. One seal put his (?her) head up
and barked a few times, but, overall, they were undisturbed by our
presence and lay back down to rest.
Doug paddling east towards Cape Hauy
A series of spectacular small islands
and isolated rock towers lie off the east end of Cape Hauy, separated
by very narrow channels of water where currents and swells collide.
Perhaps the most spectacular, at least the most photographed, is the
112 metre high Totem Pole that rises out of a narrow chasm like a
giant phallus. This is an amazing place to be in a kayak and we
paddled as close in as the swell allowed while another group of fur
seals watched from a nearby rock platform. The water is dark, deep,
clear, and under the cliffs, appears jet black and forbidding. Right
off the tip of Cape Hauy is another rock tower, strangely unnamed,
but also stunningly beautiful. The waters around Cape Hauy were
rough with two different swells running and a moderate current
running down the coast.
Inky dark sea, striking Totem Pole
From Cape Hauy we paddled northwest for
three kilometres in a gently rolling swell to Dolomieu Point and
followed the 100 metre cliffs north past the small rocky islet off
Thumbs Point towards O'Hara Bluff. A strong ebb current was running
along the coast line and the water was bumpy with rebound from the
swell and clapotis from the current, so this section was slower
paddling. O'Hara Point marks the most southerly point we had reached
paddling south from Pirates Bay and we were happy to have now paddled
the eastern shore of the Forestier and Tasman Peninsulars from Cape
Surville to Cape Hauy.
Doug rising on a gentle swell at Cape Hauy
Turning back, we caught the current
south and paddled around Dolomieu Point into rocky Bivouac Bay.
There is a small campsite tucked into the trees, good for hikers, but
not so good for sea kayakers as there is no sandy beach to land on,
just a rocky shoreline. We had lunch, and then continued following
the northern shoreline of Fortescue Bay all the way to Canoe Bay
doing what kayakers do, which is, of course, paddling as close to the
cliffs as you dare, but with one eye watchful for a bigger wave which
might lead to a capsize.
Doug edging the rocky shore line
In Canoe Bay, an old steamer was sunk
in 1953 to provide a breakwater for fishing boats and it has now
become a haven for birds and marine life. We paddled around the
wreck before continuing towards the beach. As we neared the beach,
we saw a huge splash off the rocks just north of the boat ramp which
turned out to be a humpback whale breaching. Of course, we rapidly
changed course and paddled out into the bay and were treated to a
half dozen spectacular breachings, a lot of fin waving - humpbacks
have massive fins - and then some gentle swimming. Doug and I are
always amazed at the diversity of life you see while sea kayaking -
whales, turtles, sunfish, albatross, tiger sharks, dolphins, seals,
penguins, massive schools of fish, rays, and more. There really is
no better way to experience the diversity of the ocean than in a sea
kayak.
Wreck in Canoe Bay
Finally, as the humpback whale swam lazily
off towards Cape Hauy, we turned our kayaks to shore and landed
gently on the sand of Fortescue Bay. Just another day you never want
to end messing about on the ocean in a tiny boat.
Another day wasted messing about on the ocean in a tiny boat
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