Mount Beerwah is the highest of the
Glasshouse Mountains and, as such attracts an inordinate number of
walkers. The standard hiking route, climbs up the north side, is
heavily eroded, and, if the local press is to be believed, is the
site of many hundreds of rescues (likely heavily exaggerated). In
order to avoid the yak trak on the standard route, we scrambled up
the east face and descended the hiking track.
Crag rates the east face grade 2 (I'd
call it YDS class 3), which seems about right. The total elevation
gain is only 200 to 300 metres, so the scramble up and down is a
quarter day at best. The views, however, are grand, particularly of
Coonowrin, which appears to be more or less permanently closed by
Queensland Parks.
Glasshouse Mountains from Mary Cairncross
For the east route, you walk back down
the road from the parking lot a short distance to a foot pad on the
right. This descends to cross a small creek (dry) and is signed down
the track with the usual, "You WILL die" Queensland Parks
signage. Despite these dire warnings we pressed on.
We crossed a couple of gullies (one
wet, one dry) and then started heading straight uphill on the east
side of the peak. In about 5 or 10 minutes we reached the base of
the slabs. The route is easy to follow as it is worn in (not eroded
like the hikers route) and marked with red paint. Basically we
rambled up low angle slabs for about vertical 300 metres to reach a
little mini ridge near the top. The route weaves a bit left and
right and is pretty clean. It is never exposed as the slabs you
climb are separated by vegetated ledges. The rock is grippy and
clean and progress is fast and easy, except for the fact that we were
baking in the sun and felt like we were sweating buckets. Doug was
going fast, I was gasping along behind.
Coonowrin and Tibrogargan from Beerwah
Near the top, we reached the "caves."
The track traverses around the caves to climbers left and then
ascends the final slabs. When we got to the top we were surprised
there was no-one there as we had seen quite a few cars in the parking
lot. Soon after, an older gentleman arrived. He was quite chatty
and told us all about the other peaks you could climb. He headed
down before us as he was going to walk up a second time!
After a suitable interlude, we
descended down the tourist route which is still quite a scramble and
would be challenging for many walkers. Lots of slabs to scramble
down and the erosion is terrible. As each track erodes down to the
underlying slab, the track spreads out on either side until another
slab is uncovered etc., etc.
Not far from where the scrambling
starts when coming up, we came across a party of three backpacker
types, two guys and a woman, who were basically completely sketched
out, sweating like hell and appearing pretty gripped. When the two
guys saw Doug and I, they pretended that they were ultra-cool and
having a wonderful time but the young woman was really struggling.
This, of course, is why so many people need rescuing off Mount
Beerwah.
Coonowrin with Beerwah behind
Soon, a third guy comes up. The guy we
met on top told us that this guy runs up and down to the Organ Pipes
(part way up the peak) very frequently. He was bare chested and
covered in tattoo's and obviously thought he was Dan Osmond on Bear's
Leap at Lovers Leap the way he was running up the rock. Too bad, he
was actually on a class 3 scramble with about 100 metres of total
scrambling. He started coaching the young woman up which I thought
was a bad idea as getting up is optional, getting down is mandatory
and I was sure she would struggle on the way down if she was having
trouble coming up.
I said to her "Remember, you have
to go down. Don't climb up anything you can't climb down," but
she seemed so overcome with fear I don't think she heard or
understood. The Dan Osmond groupie was encouraging her up which I
thought was irresponsible and threatens access for everyone as
apparently Queensland Parks is thinking of shutting the whole thing
down. A shame for those who are prepared.
We continued down and soon reached the
guy we met on top who was also encouraging up another young guy who
had barely started the scrambling section (he had done about 10
metres of the easiest stuff) and was already quaking with fear.
Really stupid. Somehow, all these big fish in small ponds see
themselves as hero's for scrambling up a 100 metres of grade 2 rock.
Anyway, we were down and glad to be away from it all.
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