With Easter and NSW school holidays
rapidly approaching, we knew we needed to get in and out of the
Wolgan Valley before the holiday hordes arrived from Sydney, sweeping
into the Wolgan carrying noise, trash, and campfire smoke in a
campaign reminiscent of Ghengis Khan's invasions of Eurasia.
The Newnes valley is certainly
atmospheric, nestled in a deep green gorge with high sandstone cliffs
above. The valley is just the western tip of Wollemi National Park,
which includes the largest wilderness area in Australia. It's an
area of deep canyons, lush forests, wild rivers, sandstone cliffs,
and stepped pagodas. You can walk for a few hours or a few days. We
did three walks while we were there, and, barely saw a person once we
had left the camping area.
Glow Worm Tunnel
The Glow Worm Tunnel:
This is an old
railway tunnel for the rail line that once ran between the shale oil
works at Newnes and Lithgow. The tunnel is 400 metres long and
curves so once you get a certain distance in, it is completely black.
There are various
tracks to the glow worm tunnel, we did a circuit walk from the Newnes
Road which takes you around a big pagoda, along Tunnel Creek and back
down the well graded old railway line.
The first thing
you have to do is ford the Wolgan River on a cement causeway. Then
walk uphill on an old road to a junction, the left hand fork follows
the old railway route to Newnes; continue straight ahead and uphill
to a break between sandstone cliffs and a lovely valley filled with
tree ferns. Gradually walking downhill you come out near Dry Creek
Canyon where you can peer down and get a glimpse of this narrow slot
canyon from above.
A torch helps in
the tunnel as it is completely black and quite wet along the walls
and underfoot, but, it is filled with glow worms which cover the roof
and walls like starlight on a dark night. The exit is draped in
greenery and drips with small waterfalls. There is a good view of
Donkey Mountain from the old rail trail on the way back.
Donkey Mountain
The Pipeline Track:
This is a steepish
track that crosses the height of land between the Wolgan and Capertee
Rivers and follows the route of an old pipeline connecting Newnes to
Glen Davis. You can walk from either end, but walking from Newnes is
probably nicer.
The
first couple of kilometres follows the Wolgan River east past remains
of Newnes townsite now buried in the bush. Once you cross Petries
Gully - may involve wading - the track begins a steady and, at times,
steep climb up a narrow valley to the height of land. At the top of
the ridge, there is a great lookout atop a sandstone pagoda where you
can look along the length of the Wolgan River. This is typical
escarpment country, dense eucalypt forest, sandstone bluffs and a
deeply incised river valley.
Coke Ovens
Doug
went back from the lookout, but, being an obsessive about such
things, I felt compelled to walk right over the range to Glen Davis.
The track heading north is a bit thick with dense vegetation at times
but, after a couple of kilometres, the path emerges into very open
forest below large red sandstone cliffs.
It's a
solid 500 metre climb back up from Glen Davis and hot in the
afternoon sun. I wandered along the height of land on the way back
following a scruffy track that leads to a couple of canyons. There
were more good lookouts here.
Just
before Petries Gully you can wade the Wolgan River and wander along
the interpretive trail through the old shale oil works back to the
campground.
The wonderful Wolgan Valley
Rocky
Creek Via The Wolgan River Trail:
This is
a long but easy walk along an old road that follows the Wolgan River
east to Rocky Creek where there are some campsites. The walk is
pleasant but not stunning. The best part is definitely the feeling of
isolation.
Lookout on the Pipeline Track
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