Little is known about the evasive and elusive male sea kayaker. This sub-species of the more commonly encountered Homo Sapiens frequents long surf battered beaches and off-shore islands and tends to travel in small cohorts that are almost exclusively male. Found on all Australian coastlines from temperate Tasmania to tropical Thursday Island there remains much mystery about what drives these small bands of adult males to paddle far from shore in small boats seemingly ill suited to this purpose.
In early December 2023, I had the opportunity to join one of these tribes on a pilgrimage from Quarantine Bay south of Eden to Mallacoota in Victoria. This stretch of coast is the last remaining unroaded coast in southeast Australia and as such is popular with the itinerant and often nomadic Homo Kayakus. In order to blend into the tribe I self-identified as a male for the five days of this trip, and, as many members of Homo Kayakus donned eye glasses when onshore, I believe my subterfuge to have been successful. Certainly, I was accepted into the clan and was able to observe at close quarters previously undocumented behaviour characteristic of Homo Kayakus.
Day 1: Quarantine Bay to Mowarry
Quarantine Bay is situated deep within Twofold Bay as such is often sheltered from northerly and southerly winds. Immediately upon leaving Quarantine Bay and paddling east, a northerly wind became detectable. Within about 200 metres of leaving the small beach, the cohort of six paddlers split into two groups, with one group heading due east to Lookout Point, whilst the other group paddled more or less directly southeast towards Boyd Tower which is prominent on Red Point. As an observer, I followed the larger cohort along the northern shoreline and noted that there was no previous or on water discussion of splitting the group. This simply happened organically.
At Lookout Point, a 12 to 15 knot northerly wind was blowing and sea conditions were bouncy. With a tail wind now guaranteed, Homo Kayakus proceeded to unfurl sails which are fitted to the fronts of kayaks and the group proceeded to make good time across the mouth of Twofold Bay towards Red Point and Boyds Tower. Just south of Boyds Tower, the remaining two members of the tribe were spotted also paddling south. One particularly tall member of the species, although possessing a sail, was rarely seen to use this implement and instead paddled along side the cohort, seemingly having no difficulty keeping pace with the tribe. The clan soon approached a northerly facing beach and proceeded to land the kayaks and with surprisingly alacrity a temporary camp was established.
By the second day out it became apparent that Homo Kayakus is well adapted to the coastal environment and to a great degree their daily habits follow a diurnal rhythm retiring to their hastily erected but nonetheless sturdy shelters when darkness falls and emerging at first light whereupon the shelters are hastily disassembled and stowed, along with a plethora of other equipment into the small craft that the sub-species favours.
Early on day two, the group was once again at sea and heading south in bouncy conditions down this cliff-lined coastline. The lack of easy landing spots did not deter clan members some of whom paddled very close into rocky features, a demonstration of either great prowess with their small craft or an obliviousness to danger. Some tribal members utilised crude sails but again the tallest member of the clan opted to paddle without use of ancillary aids perhaps in a display of dominance.
At Bittangabee Bay, the tribe turned to west and paddled about a kilometre up a sheltered bay to an easy landing spot where some nourishment was taken. Much banter accompanied this short break, possibly a method to promote tribal cohesion. After a short period on land, the tribe grew restless and were soon back in their craft and heading south towards Green Cape. One by one, the tribe paddled and, in some instances, sailed around Green Cape and pulled into the lee of more steep sandstone cliffs where they grouped up. This interesting behaviour is rarely witnessed and possibly only occurs under certain extreme circumstances. Typically, the male Homo Kayakus is a solitary paddler.
A strong northerly wind was blowing with gusty conditions and a rapidly building and steep sea. Homo Sapiens might have found these conditions rather confronting but Homo Kayakus seemed to revel in them going so far as to unfurl sails again which resulted in the kayaks reaching extreme speeds across Disaster Bay. So boisterous were the winds that even Homo Kayakus were forced to lay paddles out to the sides of their crafts as a preventative to capsize. In an attempt to blend in and be accepted as one of the tribe, I too unfurled my sail but found the experience more terrifying than thrilling and, after one near capsize, I was forced to pull the sail down for a short time. My observations of the clan were difficult as we hurtled across Disaster Bay as, once again, the tribe became heavily fractured with some members far north, others to the south, and some lagging the main group altogether.
As the tribe proceeded deeper into Disaster Bay, the wind eased and I was able to swiftly raise my sail. I could only hope that no other members of the tribe had seen this break with clan customs. At a deep cleft between surrounding hills, a small beach was visible and, approaching this beach, the tribe found a large and swiftly running brown river emanating from the hills to the west. This allowed easy egress to a long and scenic river gorge. As is clan custom, despite some tribal members arriving at the river before others, no members disembarked until the clan had gathered together again and decided on a location to erect another temporary encampment. Again, this temporary camp was swiftly erected in a very pleasant location under large native trees beside the river with access to fresh running water.
Day 3: Merrica River
Strong southerly winds the following day prevented even Homo Kayakus from paddling any further south. Instead, tribal members engaged in their traditional hunting and gathering activities. Mussels were acquired and fishing lines employed throughout the course of the day with some clan members trolling a line behind their craft up and down Merrica River. I was absent a good part of the day so my observations of Homo Kayakus at rest are necessarily incomplete. The strain of blending into a group where a preponderance of the members had bushy facial hair was trying and so I walked along forest tracks to Newtons Beach relishing the opportunity to revert to my more usual habitus.
Day 4: Merrica River to Cape Howe
On day 4 the normal diurnal rhythm of Homo Kayakus life had resumed with the tribe on the water in the early morning. With no wind and only a one metre swell, the tribe paddled closely along the cliffs and beaches of this remote coastline revelling in conditions which allowed close inspection of the many temporary waterfalls cascading off cliffs, seals resting near rocky reefs, sea caves and arches, and even sightings of sharks. At Little River, a surf landing was made on an exposed east facing beach where a channel into the lagoon behind the beach had opened up. The ease of this landing prompted the clan to push beyond the usual landing site at Nadgee Beach which gets some slight protection from southerly swells at the far south end of the beach, to a small bay immediately north of Cape Howe.
Cape Howe is a unique place to pause when paddling along this coast. Huge sand dunes to the immediate south mark the border with Victoria where the Gunundaal ship wreck is found along the inter tidal shoreline. After heavy rains in Victoria, fresh water pools ideal for swimming were located among the sand dunes. To the north of Cape Howe Beach, a large rock platform extends northward for a kilometre while behind the north end of Cape Howe Beach, Bunyip Hole, normally only a small tarn was now a large lake.
Another temporary encampment was hastily erected. This time, the clan dispersed along the length of the beach with some tribe members camping in tea trees behind the beach while others made shelter on the sand beach. Overnight, a northerly wind blew up and one tribesman moved his shelter from the beach to the tea trees. This demonstrates the ability of Homo Kayakus to react rapidly to changes in atmospheric conditions.
Day 5: Cape Howe to Mallacoota via Gabo Island
The sound of the surf on the beach was so loud overnight that I donned ear plugs in order to get some sleep. Next morning, the two tribesmen camped on the beach had dissembled their camps and packed their boats even earlier than usual. Normally known for their tenacious paddling ability and indifference to the hazards of surf launches, one of the older (and hairier) members of the tribe pointed out that the surf was becoming more dangerous as the tide dropped.
Very soon, the tribe had packed boats and moved them towards the surf zone and, in one of their characteristic displays of practicality and utility, tribal members assisted other clan members to launch kayaks off the somewhat messy surf on the beach. I noted, yet again, that under benign conditions, tribal members do spread far but, when difficulties approach, the clan works together to keep all members safe.
Once the tribe was at sea, sails were unfurled, except for the last remaining member to launch who staunchly paddled without a sail. The tribe resumed the sea journey, turning now to the southwest and rapidly approaching Gabo Island. The tribe passed between the narrow gap between Telegraph Point on the mainland and the northern extension of Gabo Island and paused for a brief stop on the small sheltered beach in a north facing bay on Gabo Island.
The rest of the journey was completed under very calm conditions as the wind abated completely and the seas were glassy and flat. Fresh, brown coloured water from Mallacoota Lakes had pushed all the way to Gabo Island and at Bastion Point the boat ramp was closed due to damage caused by recent heavy rains and flooding.
At Bastion Point, the tribe was as efficient as ever. Quickly unpacking kayaks, loading gear and boats onto cars and, as the first drops of rain fell speeding off to replenish diminished energy reserves at a local cafe. This may be the first documented account, complete with photographic evidence, of the nomadic habits of Homo Kayakus. Counter to previously held suspicions, I found the tribe welcoming and inclusive. Although given to broad spread whilst paddling under benign conditions, the tribe nevertheless displayed unusual and touching concern for tribal members when conditions warranted.
All images courtesy of DB.
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