It's
not the men in my life that count, it's the life in my men.
Mae West.
We are
paddling south from Eden to camp in a secluded bay for a couple of
nights and hoping to do some paddling and see some Humpback Whales as
they pass by on their annual migration to the Southern Ocean to feed.
Every October, someone in my kayak circle organises a trip to the Eden
area where the Humpback Whales seem to move in close to shore and are
easily seen. Most often it is Winkie, of crocodile wrestling fame,
but this year it is Wildey. There are only 8 of us, and, I am only
half-surprised to find I am the only female.
Wildey heads out to sea,
PC Nick Blacklock
There
was a time, many years ago now, when I really yearned for more women
to climb, ski and adventure with. I had a couple of strong female
partners, but mostly, almost exclusively, found myself out with all
male groups. Truthfully, it got a little wearying. In the
backcountry ski and climbing world, testosterone poisoning is a thing, and even into their 70's, some of these
guys were all about proving who had the biggest cojones by jumping
onto the most avalanche prone slopes they could find.
Fred stands below a slab triggered by one of the men
When I
occasionally managed to pull together an all women trip it was amazing how much more cohesive and less competitive
the group was. Leading all women climbing and skiing trips was so
much easier and less stressful than dealing with a bunch of men who
wanted to prove their hardman status. Sadly, however, it also meant
much easier trips than I wanted to do, and, after a few forays into
all women trips I gave it up and just tried to find solid partners.
One of my best female ski partners overlooking Pontiac Basin
These
days, I don't think about it much any more. I am just happy to be
out, still healthy and strong enough to enjoy challenging myself in
the outdoors. If there happen to be a lot more men on the trip than
women, I mostly don't even notice.
Rocky reefs near camp
The
forecast is for strong northerlies and interesting sea conditions -
two completely opposite swells and a significant wind driven sea. I
don't feel optimistic of seeing many whales. The rougher the ocean,
the harder it is to see the whales. I am, however, happy to be out
adventuring, even if there are seven men and me, the lone female.
The pod near Red Point
We
paddle out of Twofold Bay into a light headwind. I have done this
paddle many times on trips going south and north. Once you leave
Twofold Bay, the swell gets bigger and we are paddling south, past a
series of rock filled, exposed bays. I am working on my paddle
technique and I think I am getting faster, certainly I am feeling
fast enough to be able to paddle away from the main group to explore
bits of coast and then back to meet them. Not as fast as Nick, but,
I will never be as fast as Nick.
The
beach where we land and camp always has a bit of a shore dump and a
sucking wave that pulls the boat back out if you are not quick enough
jumping out between waves and pulling your boat up the beach. The
challenge is to make the landing as glamorous as possible and not get
swamped as a couple of people do.
Wombat bay
Doug
and I find a really nice campsite with grass mown short by the
resident wombats, sheltered from the northerly wind, and shaded from
the sun. The only problem, which we discover when we return home is
that wombats apparently have fleas and now so do we.
Wombatus Fleabagus
The
wind gradually builds through the afternoon and it is a windy and
cool evening, great for keeping mosquitoes and wombat fleas away.
On
Sunday, those of us paddling, are up early and into our boats before
7 am, hoping to paddle south and get back before the wind builds too
strongly. There is a confronting shore dump to launch into, but,
with empty boats and some careful timing, everyone gets out okay and
mostly dry.
Huw, PC Nick Blacklock
We
paddle south down to a nearby point. It is not that far but the sea
is rough, really rough. Big steep waves coming at us from all
directions. Every so often, a haystack sends a spurt of sea water
shooting a few metres into the air. Our boats rise and fall, we lose
sight of each other. I have to concentrate to avoid "air
strokes" which are disconcerting as well as destabilising. Away
from reefs, the waves don't actually break, but they rise steeply and
curl over at the top and frequently look as if they are about to
collapse.
Bird Island
It
will be almost impossible to see whales today, and, although I feel
fine, I do wonder how this sea will feel with a 15 knot wind pushing
the waves up even steeper. We spend a while out bobbing around in
our boats but eventually we decide to go back in. Looking back over
the trips I have done at this time of year on the far south coast and
we often have very windy conditions, but this is certainly the
roughest sea I have seen down here.
Surf launch
The
rest of the day is spent walking. I follow the trail all the way
north to Boyd Tower in an increasingly thirsty march to find water.
I forgot to get my water bottle out of my kayak, and, by the time I
walk a couple of hours to the north, I am parched dry. There is a
rain water tank attached to the outhouse at the parking area at Boyd
Tower with a sign saying "Do Not Drink." I ignore this
completely and clamp my lips over the faucet and gulp great swigs of
water. The tourists look at me suspiciously.
Looking north to Boyd Tower
Next
day we head back to Twofold Bay. I am looking forward to the
challenge of some rough water but it does not feel as bouncy as the
day before. Launching has its challenges, with a couple of people
getting spun around and struggling a bit to get out through the
breakers. I just put my head down and paddle like stink, reaching
over the back of breaking waves and, although I get drenched by a
wave breaking over my head, I make it out beyond the surf break
quickly.
Keep paddling!
Nick
has been teaching me to catch runners and encouraging me to do some
interval training and, once we pass by Red Point into the more
sheltered waters of Twofold Bay, the waves are regular enough to
catch some runners and I alternate sprinting - and gasping - with
catching waves.
My boat disappears into the surf
No
whales seen on the way back, but we did have the company of a pod of
dolphins for a while. There is a very short video here.