Friday, May 3, 2019

Gaining Experience Or Skiing Tszil Mountain


Good judgement is the result of experience and experience the result of bad judgement. Mark Twain

We spent the night #vanlife'ing it in the Joffre Lakes parking lot. It was not until a day later that I noticed the mostly buried sign in the parking lot saying "No ..." something indecipherable buried by snow, but, probably "no camping." Is sleeping in a van camping? It does not feel like camping; by camping standards #vanlife, if you are a mid-50's dirtbag, feels pretty damn comfortable.


Skiing of Tszil Mountain


Until the last of the tourists left it was a strange night. I've never quite experienced anything like it. The trail is, of course, snowbound, the lakes, all three of them, are snow covered and frozen. This area, back in 2002 when we last skied into the big alpine basin behind Upper Joffre Lake, used to be the sole domain of backcountry skiers until well into June. Backcountry skiers are now very firmly in the minority. The 'grammers own Joffre Lakes.


A lonely skier among a sea of 'grammers


The grammers descend, like black flies in June, in droves, and could be every bit as annoying. Age, gender, ethnicity, none of these are a barrier to the endless selfie taking. Girls in shorts so short they are barely underwear posed on dirty piles of snow pushed back by the snow plows, they jumped, and laughed, flipped their hair about and flung chunks of refrozen snow around their heads. The males are somewhat more demure, but they too were shooting selfies, strutting importantly about the parking lot, or screeching out of the parking lot with tires smoking at warp speed. The fact that all this was played out in the parking lot seemed to deter no-one, although, anyone with a modicum of sense would have to admit that this is bizarre behavior.


Two Goat Ridge from Tszil Mountain


But, early morning, the parking lot is empty except for us, cooking up bacon, eggs and black coffee, the ultimate breakfast for a day of spring ski touring. Three young blokes arrived and left before us, heading, apparently for the Aussie coulior on Mount Joffre. They had packs festooned with various bits of equipment, helmets, jackets, stuff sacks. Obviously, they had never heard that packs are for packing.



Upper Joffre Lake and the north side of Slalok, 
beyond the 'grammer zone


There was no hope of skiing up the track so we strapped our skis to our packs and started walking. It was a tad unpleasant, the track was pretty frozen and slippery where it was steeper. I am perplexed at how many people manage to make it to Middle Joffre Lake in their generally inadequate footwear. In a couple of places someone had strung out a length of Canadian Tire nylon cord as some kind of dubious safety line, anchored to goodness knows what as there was nothing looped around any trees. Perhaps it was some dodgy abalakov anchor in the packed snow of the foot pad.

I managed to ski the last bit to Middle Lake using ski crampons, but Doug went all the way on foot. I felt nostalgic for the days when you could actually ski this trail. Just before Middle Lake a group of 5 strapping young lads blasted past on the way to climb Matier, their speed and ease of travel reminding me of how much older and slower we were.


Crossing Joffre Lake


Deadfall or poor route finding meant we had to take our skis off to clamber over a log to reach Upper Joffre Lake, but once there we were beyond the reach of 'grammers and into the alpine. On the steep slopes below the Stonecrop Glacier we could see the 5 youth already far up the mountain side aiming for a series of ramps that lead onto the Matier Glacier. The 3 lads were no where to be seen.


Taylor from Tszil with Cassiope behind


From the lake, we turned southwest and skinned up an open valley that, if followed to its terminus leads to the Taylor-Tszil col where we had skied 17 years ago. Today, however, we followed the valley for a couple of kilometres before turning south and working our way up benches and ramps towards the Tszil-Slalok col.


Easy travel above Joffre Lake


On the other side of the easy valley we saw the 3 youth arduously making their way up a steep medial moraine, alternately skiing and boot-packing where it was too steep to ski. "Where are they going, what are they doing?" I wondered aloud, to which Doug replied cryptically "gaining experience."


The last slope up to the top of Tszil Mountain,
Slalok behind


From the Tszil-Slalok col, we skied easily around to the north side of the snow covered summit and up to the top. After our rather dismal series of failures, it was nice to be successful on something. The view was impressive. The views from summits in Canada are always impressive. It's hard to describe standing on a mountain top with jagged summits and intertwined ridges snaking off in all directions. It is both dazzling and daunting.


Skiing up to the Slalok Tszil col


We had settled down to tea and lunch on the summit, when the three lads suddenly arrived. I'm not sure who was more surprised, us or them. They certainly looked more chagrined at finding a couple of old farts who they had last seen indulging in a triple bypass breakfast in the parking lot sitting comfortably atop a mountain. That's the thing with old people, we aren't fast but we can keep going.


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