Cayoosh Mountain was an appealing
objective: a summit overlooking the spectacular Joffre Group followed
by a 1000 metre east facing descent first down the Armchair Glacier
and then through sparse trees and avalanche slopes. As a bonus, the
approach through forest was short.
Joffre Group from the Armchair Glacier
This route starts off the Duffy Lake
Road just a little southwest of the route to Marriot Basin and Mount
Rohr. A short logging road runs north for a couple of kilometres
following a drainage around to near the base of a talus slope below a
tiny tarn southeast of Cayoosh Mountain.
Skinning up the rock slide beside avalanche debris
From the logging road, you can see the
big east side of Cayoosh, the Armchair Glacier and the route up into
the high alpine basin. We skinned up (climbers) right side of the
rock slide avoiding frozen avalanche debris and were soon contouring
out into the upper valley with the tiny tarn. Some more avalanches
had come down here. The only really awkward part of the trip is
skinning up steep slopes above the lake where you emerge onto lightly
forested slopes - these are actually big slide paths so not a good
place to be in poor stability.
Route up to the Armchair Glacier
Once out into the open avalanche
slopes, we contoured north, sometimes climbing a little, until we
could skirt first around a steep ridge, and then skin up onto a steep
lateral moraine. Once we skied off the north side of the moraine,
travel was easy and pleasant up the Armchair Glacier. The glacier is
quite benched so it is easy to skin up lower angle slopes.
Skinning up the Armchair Glacier
Up under the steep east face of Cayoosh
Mountain we came across some large fresh avalanches. The route to
the summit, crosses a high shoulder and then either goes straight up
the face on a steep east facing snow slope or takes the lower angled
but often corniced north ridge.
Slab avalanches on Cayoosh Mountain
We were concerned about snow stability.
There were some minor pinwheels running but more concerning was the
dry slab that had released on the immediately adjacent slopes. Not
going to the summit was an easy call. In a day or two, this route
would probably be safe, but not today.
Doug under the slopes of Cayoosh Mountain
As a consolation, we skinned across to
a high point on the south ridge where we had wonderful views of the
Joffre Group and over to Mount Rohr and the Marriot area while we
enjoyed lunch and a cup of tea.
Not a bad spot for lunch
And then there was that wonderful 1000
metre descent right down to valley bottom.
Spring skiing can be so crowded
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