The Nadgee Nature Reserve is the only declared coastal wilderness in NSW and, together with the contiguous Cape Howe Wilderness Zone in Croajingolong National Park provides the best coastal wild country on the southeast coast: a 50 kilometre stretch of wild storm swept coastline from the big sand dunes of Cape Howe to the tranquil upper reaches of the Merrica River catchment. It is my absolute favourite place on the NSW coast both because of its relatively intact eco-system and because access is essentially self-powered only.
When I feel depressed about the state of the world I realise that some progress towards both preserving the natural world and recognising our imperative need to expand and explore our own physical and mental boundaries in self-powered pursuits has been preserved in the Nadgee Wilderness Area. More could be done, but at least something has been done.
We had only been home for just over a week from our long sojourn in South Australia when an invitation to a kayak trip into the Nadgee Wilderness arrived via email. Doug and I deliberated for about 60 seconds. True, we had many things to catch up on around the home, but wilderness and adventure will always be more important to us than just about anything else in life, so, of course, we said "yes." My goal, as I age, is to continue saying yes to self-propelled adventure for as long as possible.
Four of us would do what we called the "half-full Nadgee," it being widely agreed upon that the full Nadgee requires paddling between Eden and Mallacoota. Doug, Harry, Mark and I would paddle from Mallacoota to Wonboyn, tossing in a crossing of Wonboyn bar to make the trip slightly different from usual. Consistency is a winner in life, but consistency combined with variability is where the real magic happens. John and Mike would start and return to Greenglade paddling south over two days to meet us at the beach at Nadgee River mouth on the southern side of the beautiful Impressa Moor.
While John and Mike launched from Greenglade and paddled the short distance south to land and camp at Merrica River, Mark, Doug, Harry and I embarked on a car shuttle between Wonboyn and Mallacoota. We camped that night in the forest outside Mallacoota and I went off walking along an old fire road as sun set and an impressive moon rose over Mallacoota Lake.
Day 1: Bastion Point to Nadgee River Camp via Gabo Island
We were all up early the next morning, some earlier than others (Pearson), and drove down to Bastion Point for breakfast (eggs and bacon, of course) and to launch the kayaks. Most boat ramps are not built for kayakers who need a small shoulder of sand to pack and launch from. This is because most Australians, sad but true, are as addicted to motors as they are to junk food and grog. There is an evolutionary explanation for this, but, we do have a big brain and the ability to make better decisions.
There was quite a swell rolling in and, launching first, I thought I had got the timing all wrong and was going to be hit by a breaking wave but somehow managed to avoid it. The sprint speed needed to launch quickly gets harder to generate from a cold start as I get older. On the water, we headed for Tullaberga Island along the big curve of Mallacoota Bay. Regrouping at Tullaberga Island, we turned toward Gabo Harbour on the northwest side of Gabo Island where there is a small beach, jetty and sheltered landing site.
I have never walked up to the Gabo Island lighthouse before so we landed and set off along the mown track passing the memorial to Monument City, the ship that was lost in 1853 to the light house on the southern end of the island. Built in 1862, the lighthouse is the second highest in Australia and surely one of the most beautiful. Made of thick red granite slabs it curves upward with elegant simplicity. Off the south end of Gabo Island is a small rocky islet home to seals and sea birds.
Back at Gabo Harbour, Mark discovered that, in a seniors moment, he had lost his camera somewhere so while the rest of us shovelled in a quick lunch, he walked back up the track, returning later empty handed. If you find a camera on Gabo Island - I think it is on the rock slabs south of the lighthouse - it belongs to Mark.
Leaving Gabo Island we had a few exciting moments passing through the narrow gap between the north end of Gabo Island and Telegraph Point. I was impressed that Mark went through with his sail up as there were many waves breaking. In bigger seas this would close out solidly. We had to detour a long way out to sea around Iron Prince and Cape Howe, both of which have extensive off-shore reefs. North of Cape Howe, conditions were calmer and we moved closer inshore paddling past Cape Howe beach and Nadgee Lake beach and the low rocky cliffs of the Nadgee coast.
At the mouth of the Nadgee River, we could see kayaks, tents and two people at the north end (the more exposed landing site) of the small beach. Despite a metre-plus high dumping wave, we all landed successfully, carried our boats up the beach and settled in for two nights camping. The moon rise that night was very spectacular: a huge round red disc that climbed slowly above the south end of the bay.
Day 2: Nadgee Mountain
I have had Nadgee Mountain on my radar since 2016 when we walked into Harry's Hut along Table Ridge and down the Daylight Ridge fire trail. In 2020 I had toyed with the idea of walking up from Merrica River during a five day kayak trip but I had ended up paddling on our spare day instead. Now, I had a full day and only 25 kilometres (round trip) to walk to reach the top of Nadgee Mountain. Easily doable and well within the personal standard of fitness I aspire to maintain.
Some people have magical beliefs that, in the words of Paul Coelho, "when you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you achieve it." I think this is nonsense; achieving meaningful goals mostly requires hard work, smart thinking, and that increasingly rare commodity, grit. Nevertheless, freakishly often I find these goals that percolate away at the back of my mind, sometimes for years, are frequently achieved. However, that could just be selective memory and I am forgetting all the other goals that simmered below the surface and eventually faded away. Such are the foibles of human cognition.
The first challenge is to cross the Nadgee River from south to north. When we walked the Nadgee Wilderness Walk all those years ago (2013), we strolled across a shallow pool with no concern for tides. The bar now is wide open and the Nadgee River floods deeply with the rising tide. Luckily, I had a handy kayak, so I paddled across stored my kayak above high tide level - a bit difficult with all the rocks - and then heading upstream quickly found a small campsite and trail leading uphill to the recently cleared Impressa Trail. I returned to the Nadgee River twice. Once to paddle back across to retrieve my compass which I had forgotten and the second time to shout out to Doug that I had found a good trail.
It is just over three kilometres to the Nadgee River at Harry's Hut, across the open Impressa Moor with sunlight beams shining on the water, and then through pleasant eucalpytus forest and downhill to the rainforest (and mosquitoes) along the Nadgee River. Then a steady but easy climb on a fire trail (recently cleared) up Daylight Ridge to Table Ridge. At the head of Table Creek, the fire trail turns northeast and runs up to the ranger station at Merrica River. I left the track here and struck out cross-country.
On a rough enough is good enough bearing, I headed west crossing mostly moor land and occasionally pushing through spindly trunks of burnt banksia. The native grasses on the moor grow hip high and provide unsteady footing, not a big deal until you start thinking about snakes and then you hope they are all sleepy or hibernating. I did not see any, but Doug coming along a half hour after me almost stepped on a brown snake.
Within a couple of hundred metres of leaving the trail I could see Mount Nadgee and tucked the compass away and simply followed a reasonable route through vegetation to the top. There is a trig and, at least at the time of writing this, a camera to record wildlife. From just below the summit, I could see Nadgee Lake and Cape Howe. So, five years after first conceiving of the idea, I stood on top of Mount Nadgee. I crossed paths with Doug coming back down so he also stood on Mount Nadgee.
I had a serious craving for a hot cup of tea after all that walking so my return to the Nadgee River was as expeditious as I could make it. Jogging the downhill sections, walking briskly on the few short uphill sections. I detoured to Harrys Hut on the way back but stayed an insignificant period of time as the mosquitoes were horrible.
Back at camp in time for 3.30 pm afternoon mug of tea, and Doug arrived a half hour later. Another stunning moon rise and then after dark, the ocean came alive with the electric blue glow of Noctiluca. It was so cool standing down by the ocean watching the breaking waves run bright blue with this dino-flagellate that I laughed out loud. Nature is such a wonder I only wonder why more people don't get out and experience it.
Day Four: Nadgee River to Merrica River
We were on the move again in the kayaks next day, paddling out of Nadgee River onto the ocean and heading north to Merrica River. By all accounts I had the most impressive launch with my spectacularly bad timing taking two big waves on the chest and over the head, but, on the bright side, I needed a face wash.
Paddling north was really lovely as the swell had fallen over the last couple of days and there was no wind. We paddled close in to the coast along cliffs and long sandy beaches. The cliffs are not high along this section of coast but they are beautiful with caves and grottos and we even found a section of rock with three arches clear through to the other side. After recent rains we also found a small waterfall tumbling over cliffs into the sea. Just before Merrica River we inspected a deep cave that runs 30 metres into the rock and ends in a small but stormy beach. The opening is barely a paddle blade wide. Along the way, we passed dozens of dolphins and seals and at least half a dozen sea eagles.
At Merrica River, Doug paddled up the gorge to get some fresh water and I scrambled and rambled along the rocky shelves on the south side of the river.
Day 5: Merrica River to Wonboyn
I can't speak for the rest of the crew, but I had a much drier launch from Merrica River out to sea as the swell was smaller again. Before leaving the Nadgee we ducked south and some of us paddled into the deep cave. Doug and I followed the "back in" technique while Harry and John paddled in bow first. Very fun, very dark, very "boomy" as the waves washed in.
Mike and John headed off to Greenglade while Harry, Mark and I paddled north in glassy conditions to Bay Cliff where Wonboyn Lake and River run out to sea. The bar is pretty narrow and has a few rocks studded in it, but with a half metre swell paddling in was not only easy, it was fun. I caught a lovely little wave and cruised in with barely a paddle stroke. Once in Wonboyn Lake we had an easy paddle west to the little boat ramp.
The end of another fabulous Nadgee trip and a resounding endorsement to saying "yes" to adventure.
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