When Paul called a couple of months before the 2023 Rock N Roll at Batemans Bay to ask if Doug and I wanted to paddle the Nadgee Wilderness Coast immediately following Rock N Roll, we, as usual, took about two seconds to say “of course.” The one hundred kilometres of coast that runs from Boydtown in the north to Mallacoota in the south has, without doubt, the best paddling on the entire east coast of NSW. To date, although threatened, the area has escaped the depradations of development and remains a coastline of wild surf beaches, jagged cliffs, deep green forests and open moorland. You simply cannot enter the Nadgee Wilderness and not be touched by its splendid isolation and erose beauty.
Our conundrum was which direction to paddle. Winds were forecast predominantly from the west to south west which would normally indicate a south to north paddle, but big swell heights and long periods were forecast for early in the week which would make landing on the surf beaches a dangerous proposition. In the end, we decided to paddle north to south, trading some potential head winds for the opportunity to land on the surf beaches without calamity.
Day 1: Boydtown to Bittangabee Bay
Our first challenge, apart from trying to sleep through the ukelele playing revellers at Boydtown Beach Holiday Park, was launching from Boydtown Beach deep in Twofold Bay. Normally a sheltered location, 1.5 metre waves were crashing down with serious energy. With a bit of judicious timing, however, we were all off the beach with dry hair and on our way to Mowarry Bay.
Boyds Tower marks the start of the brick red cliffs that continue almost all the way to Bittangabee Bay. The swell was so uniform and powerful that you could have surfed off the rebound and approaching Mowarry Point, a perfectly formed rebound wave crashed over my head thus wetting my previously dry hair. We landed for a short break on Mowarry Beach which is steep and also had metre high waves collapsing onto the shore, yet managed to launch again with no-one copping a wave over deck or head.
The red brick cliffs continue almost all the way to Bittangabee Bay where grey granite walls mark the entrance to the protected landing. The lagoon was open to the sea and Bittangabee Creek was also running well with fresh water for swimming.
Day 2: Bittangabee Bay to Merrica River
On our second day, we again needed an early start as we had no idea how long it would take to reach Merrica River if the southwest winds ramped up as forecast. Leaving Bittangabee Bay at 8 am we paddled south down to Green Cape against a light headwind which nonetheless managed to kick up a fair bit of chop necessitating cagoules to avoid getting drenched.
There were standing waves around Green Cape as wind and current collided and our speed slowed for a couple of kilometres. The ten kilometre paddle across Disaster Bay to Merrica River felt quite reasonable with a light wind only over our shoulders from the south, and a very easy surf entry into Merrica River made tricky only due to the strong outflowing tide. Paul and I paddled up the river to the freshwater cascades, a side trip which is always enjoyable, and later that day, Paul and John gathered and cooked fresh mussels to supplement dinner. It was, however, a chilly night at Merrica River with cold air draining down the river valley.
Day 3: Merrica River to Nadgee River
Another early morning start paddling south along the beautiful cliffs and beaches of the Nadgee Wilderness. We passed sleeping seals and a huge pod of dolphins. The swell had, as forecast, continued to decline so we could paddle closer in to the stunning rock formations, caves, arches, waterfalls, and steep surf beaches that stretch along the coast.
At Nadgee Beach, we decided to land at the south end which had a little more shelter from the surf than the north end. I called Doug back to clarify our landing order just as a huge set of waves rolled through which Fishkiller appropriately called “the set of the day.” After the set of the day, we landed one by one without mishap.
Nadgee River is one of my favourite camps along this coast as you can walk across Nadgee Moor to Nadgee Lake and up onto Endeavour Moor, explore up the Nadgee River, or even walk up Mount Nadgee. With a more favourable weather forecast we would have stayed an extra day.
Day 4: Nadgee River to Mallacoota
On our last day, we had a more leisurely start as the southwesterly winds were forecast to ameliorate over the day before turning more southerly in the afternoon. At 8.30 am, we launched through small surf – another dry hair launch – and followed the coast south past Nadgee Lake, Cape Howe, around Iron Prince Reef and over to the lighthouse on Gabo Island. We lapped Gabo Island paddling through the gap between island and reef on the northern tip where the seals rest before taking a pleasant lunch break on the tiny beach and harbour on the western side of the island.
Over lunch, the wind, which had dropped completely as we paddled around Gabo Island, ticked up from the southwest with enough vigor that we were able to gain some lift from our sails for the final 13 kilometre paddle west past Tullaberga Island to Bastion Point. Half way between Tullaberga Island and Gabo Island we came upon a group of seals who were feeding on a large school of fish. Just another reminder that the Nadgee is a special place which always rewards the traveller.
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