Friday, May 31, 2024

Limit Your Options, Expand Your Life

It’s the most liberating thing in the world. ... When retreat is no longer an option ….. it’s only up and [it’s] an amazing sense of freedom because there is no longer a choice. Mark Twight.

Bicycles are fantastic. Single track flowy mountain bike trails are awesome, but so is riding your bike along the shared path beside the ocean to the local park run.




Our first home renovation project, a pretty simple one – tiling a splash back – I realised how over-rated choice was. Even in the small town we lived in there were a thousand different tile options, and you had to look at them all and work out which was the right colour, shape, cost, how easy the installation would be, on and on and on, looking at f**king tiles until gouging your own eyes out would be preferable.




Grocery stores are the same, 47 different cereal boxes (all junk), 23 different types of jam (also junk), 40 different packages of frozen fish (coated in glyphosate soaked junk). How much time and energy is wasted comparing the different packets of junk?




Saturday, if I’m home, is Park Run day so I don’t have to make any choices. I get up, charge up on coffee, ride my bicycle down to Rotary Park and participate. There is so much power in limiting your choices, so much space made in your brain and your life. No-one really needs 37 different options that is really only one option packaged up in a different brightly coloured mess of plastic and paper. Limit your options, expand your life.

Wednesday, May 29, 2024

Sport Climbing and Mountain Biking

Discipline is doing what you hate to do, but none the less doing it like you love it. Mike Tyson.

The above is from my collection of pithy quotes which I add to from time to time. I’m not sure I agree completely with the sentiment. I think you need discipline when beginning a new habit, but, the longer you persist the easier persistence becomes, and, if the new habit supports a goal you are committed to, persistence will lead to pleasure and then you’ll persevere because the results are motivating.





We just had a couple of great days away only a couple of hours from home. If our trip database is correct – I have no reason to think it isn’t – it’s three years since we went sport climbing at Nowra! In that time I would expect my capacity to collapse, but – back to the trip database again – that does not appear to be true. I climbed 15 pitches, Doug did 14 pitches, we led every route, and it was a blast. Rock climbing is one of those sports that gets more fun and offers more opportunities the better you get. It was gratifying to find that all the training aimed at getting better to have more fun was working and that is enough impetus to keep going even if I don’t always love what I’m doing.




Our second day, we rode the mountain bike trailsmountain bike trails at Coondoo. These are volunteer maintained and the full loop at Coondoo is in the order of 10 or 12 kilometres. We rode it twice and it too was a blast. So much easier than riding the Dam Loop from our place which always involves a big grunt up a steep and loose hill and a reasonable amount of elevation gain in the form of short steep climbs (and some longer climbs) on an increasingly narrowing track around the loop itself.




Today, it’s back to training, and loving the training because the results are worth it.

Sunday, May 26, 2024

Best Before Date

The last few years have been all about long sea kayaking trips. People call “trips” expeditions these days but that seems a bit pompous to me when, for the most part, it’s a few people throwing a bunch of stuff in a kayak and heading out on the ocean for a couple of weeks. The terminology, however, doesn’t really matter. What does matter is that since the end of 2021, I’ve done an awful lot of endurance training in a sea kayak.


PC: DB

The trips we have done in the last couple of years (Bass Strait in 2022, Bangalee to Seaforth also 2022, Bangalee to Clairview in 2023, and southwest Tasmania in 2024) have all involved consecutive long days paddling - averaging around 40 kilometres every day with peaks up to 65 kilometres - mostly in dynamic conditions. Pulling that off, with enough margin that you aren’t wiped at the end of every day and can enjoy the surroundings by, for example, walking up mountains, requires training. Lots of training, most of it sport specific, but, ideally including enough strength training that you don’t lose your hard won muscle mass. Remember, muscle mass and strength are THE best predictors of healthy and active aging.




Coming back to mainland Australia from Tasmania in early 2024, I had two goals for the winter: see if I could rebuild some strength and muscle, and have an epic season of rock climbing. Both are a bit daunting when you’ve passed your best “use before date,” but, not impossible. My version of Peter Attia’s “centenarian decathlon” is maintaining the ability to say “I’m in” when an adventure comes my way. For me this means: I can walk 20 kilometres easily and jog about the same (but faster), jump in my kayak and paddle 30 kilometres in a reasonable time frame (under five hours), carry a climbing pack up and down steep tracks, climb a dozen pitches a day, carry a backpack and bushwack to a summit somewhere, run five kilometres at my lactate threshold, and ride my bicycle on the local single track. I also want to be able to do full push-ups, pull-ups, and, I’d love to get a front lever and a full pistol squat. The last two I’m still working on.





Depending on your outlook, those sound like worthy goals or absolute insanity. If you are a regular reader of this blog (someone, anyone?) you might note that I tend to the obsessive. It suits me, because what makes me happy – and we are all different – is setting audacious (for me) goals and working towards them. When you finally reach the end goal, there’s enormous satisfaction; a deep inner joy that never goes away. Luckily, with practice the journey can be just as fulfilling as the goal. Each time I put weight on the bar (something I haven’t been able to do consistently for a few years due to all that endurance training) I feel a frisson of pleasure. That frisson of pleasure is extra special because I know that if I want to, I can train strength in the morning, and jump in the kayak after lunch and go out for a couple of hours in the kayak on a winters afternoon and have a mini-adventure. Capacity is under-rated.


PC: DB

I plan my training a week in advance, and I do something every single day even if I feel a bit beat up and fatigued. In fact, in life and training, there is incredible power in doing something specifically when it feels hard and scary. As Gadd says uncompromisingly in this article “Don’t fucking weaken in training, and you won’t when it’s uncomfortable and shitty in the defining moments of life.”


PC: DB


Changing habits (or systems) is the best way to change a life because most of what we do is habit driven even if we don’t realise it. Also from Gadd: “You’ll forget how to quit if you don’t, and you’ll never know how to push through big uncomfortable moments if you don’t do it every single day.” Pushing through in training or when a mini-adventure comes your way is how you develop the habit of not weakening.




As much as habits play a role, I think fear does as well. So many of our fears have so little grounding in reality. I reminded myself of this just a few days ago at a difficult move on a rock climb. I was a metre or so above a piece of protection, so if I fell, the worst thing that would happen was not much at all. Often times, the worst thing that can happen is not much at all. If the worst thing that can happen is being a bit more tired at the end of the day than usual, use that as an opportunity to practice “not quitting.” When life really gets difficult, you’ll be glad you did.

Friday, May 24, 2024

But Does It Work?

When Paxlovid was first approved for use, I looked up the trial data. This is almost always quite easy to do but as most folks don’t learn how to read medical studies in high school or even university, interpreting the findings can be difficult. In the case of Paxlovid, it wasn’t difficult at all for a number of reasons.

First, the EPIC HR trial tested Paxlovid in unvaccinated adults. This is fine if you are going to restrict Paxlovid to unvaccinated adults, but, if the drug is going to rolled out in the western world where almost every adult has had at least two Covid vaccinations, there’s a problem. These are two different populations. This is medical science 101 and understandable by anyone of average intellect. Subsequently, of course, Paxlovid was made available to vaccinated adults, and, foreshadowing here, we should have some idea how that is going to end.

Secondly, while Paxlovid in unvaccinated adults did show a treatment benefit, the effect size was modest. The primary outcome was Covid related hospitalisation or death from any cause over the full 28 day study. Death from any cause is an interesting endpoint and one would hope but I would not trust, that “death from any cause” did not include random events like bus accidents etc. In the full intent to treat analysis death from any cause in the placebo group was 1% versus 0% in the treatment group. Not much can be concluded from this as the signal to noise ratio is too high given the paucity of “events” (death from any cause is the event). Six percent of patients in the placebo group were hospitalised for Covid 19 versus just under 1% in the treatment group (0.77%). This is certainly in favour of Paxlovid but again, the numbers are small in both groups. Either way, this is not a blockbuster drug by any stretch of the imagination and given that many commonly used medications are contraindicated in conjunction with Paxlovid (check the list it will surprise you), Paxlovid should be approached with caution, as should all newly released drug treatments.

Thirdly, it’s also worth noting that the original EPIC HR trial was done when Delta was the main Covid variant in circulation and more recently circulating variants are producing considerably less severe disease.

In April of this year, the EPIC SR trial was published to remarkably less fan fare and remarkably less action by public health officials. This trial was open to both vaccinated and unvaccinated individuals and people at no risk of severe disease from a Covid infection. This is the real life population of people who are likely to take Paxlovid which makes determining whether or not Paxlovid has any efficacy in this population of paramount importance. In the EPIC SR trial the primary endpoint was “time to sustained alleviation of all targeted Covid-19 signs and symptoms.” This is an imprecise endpoint (the data is self-reported) but one that is commonly used in anti-viral drug studies. Covid related hospitalisation and death were secondary endpoints.

There is no point going into detail about the EPIC SR trial because the conclusion says it all: “The time to sustained alleviation of all signs and symptoms of Covid-19 did not differ significantly between participants who received nirmatrelvir–ritonavir (Paxlovid) and those who received placebo.” There was also no difference between Paxlovid and placebo on either of the secondary endpoints (hospitalisation or death).

As of May 2024, we have not seen any statements from our public health officials that address the newest data on Paxlovid. In fact, the latest press release I could find was basically a publicity campaign for both Paxlovid and the Albenese Government advising that more people would be eligible for Paxlovid. You get to decide if you think this is appropriate and representative of the currently available science. Of course, you should also carefully read the trial data, consult your own physician, and make your own decision based on what is important to you.

One day I’ll write a long post about why I, among so many other citizens of the world, have lost faith in public health and our regulatory agencies. You could consider this a first instalment.

Knock On My Door

This is not theatre. Do your work, do what you must do to get through it, and know that each action leaves a mark. Enough marks paint a picture. A portrait of who you are and what you stand for.

The difference between the real thing and posers is simple. It is a choice. A history of choices executed over time. Your actions have consequences. What kind of mark do you want to leave?

Live deliberately. Train deliberately. Mark Twight.


Would you organise a weekly outdoor training session for people in your neighbourhood? I had to think about this, but, in the end, I decided I would not. If someone approached me and asked to train with me in my home gym, I would say yes. And, it would be a pretty enthusiastic yes. There’s a difference however, between someone taking the initiative and proactively searching out a training partner, and randoms turning up at a neighbourhood training session. To understand why, we have to go back in time to the early 1980’s when the Alpine Club of Canada ran sporadic mountain leadership conferences for Alpine Club members.





When I say sporadic, I mean, to my knowledge two. The first was before my time, the second was not really that good except that the final night of the conference featured Barry Blanchard giving a slide talk. Slide talks were a thing before YouTube. I remember the second conference, which I attended, had some “mountain dietitian” who spent an hour banging on about eating “complex carbohydrates” every two hours to fuel mountain activities. As if “complex carbohydrates” are not simply sugar, and, eating every two hours, whether it is a ten hour mountain day or a two week expedition is ridiculous. Better to follow Blanchard’s completely untutored advice which was to have a “triple bypass breakfast” at the early opening cafe before post-holing like a moose for two hours to gain the base of some far flung waterfall ice climb.





Anyway. I read the course notes for the previous conference to the one I attended and I can still remember the best article which tackled the thorny topic of whether outdoor clubs should try to increase their membership. The author (it could have been Murray Toft, but equally I could have that completely wrong – it was a couple of decades ago) stratified potential club members into five different categories. I think three would have done as categories one and two were similar as were three and four.





The easiest category to start with is category five. These are the people who will never join your neighbourhood training club no matter what. Categories three and four are people who are motivated in the short term often because they have friends who are involved, or neighbourhood training is trendy right now, or it’s the new year and getting fit is their new years resolution. Category three and four folks will hang around for a while but they’ll never step up and offer to train the group if you can’t make it, and, within a relatively short time period, they’ll get tired of neighbourhood training and drop out, or at least attend only infrequently.




Category one and two people are the folks who are highly self motivated. They will seek out opportunities to train in their neighbourhood. They are self-directed and self-educated and, to quote Mark Twight, will “Live deliberately” and “Train deliberately.” You don’t have to advertise to find these people because they will find you.





It’s a bit like inspiration, the motivation of strangers or even friends and acquaintances doesn’t really exist, although lots of people want to believe it does. People also want to believe the ‘rona wasn’t a lab leak and our regulatory agencies aren’t captured. It’s a nice idea, but it just doesn’t hold up in the real world. I train strength every third day; knock on my door if you want to join me.


Tuesday, May 21, 2024

The Insidiousness of Fear

Over the years, the British have given us many things: the Whillans sit harness (very similar to my first harness, yellow, heavy, with floppy gear loops that were impossible to use), gritstone climbing, the Wide Boyz, skeg boats and rudderless kayaks, and my two favourites: “conditions” to describe rough water encountered while sea kayaking, and “let’s crack on” a general exhortation to get moving or speed up the pace.





Sunday promised “conditions” but disappointed. The BOM forecast was verging on desperate with a strong wind warning, and a 2.5 metre swell, although inshore, MetEye was only predicting light winds. The wave buoy, located - when last spotted - about three kilometres east of the Tollgate Islands, peaked at a Hmax of seven metres and HS at three metres on Saturday evening so conditions were favourable for getting “conditions.” We paddled out of Caseys Beach as the sand on our local beach is not really sand but a coarse grit (all the sand has been dragged out by frequent storms recently) and in bigger swells, can have an annoying dumpy wave.




My plan was to paddle out to the Tollgate Islands, head south for an hour or two, find a beach to stretch and drink tea (always more important to me than food) and head back closer inshore. Inshore (west) of Black Rock as you paddle past Mosquito Bay the sea floor is dotted with reefs and rocky islets in shallow water of only 5 to 10 metres. In conditions, these break crazily, and, on rare occasions we have been forced to paddle around the east side of Black Rock. Conditions, however, were pretty much absent and it was a routine uneventful paddle.




Monday we cracked on climbing. Doug and I are good at cracking on. I have been known to tie into the end of the rope before Doug has got off abseil from his pitch. Seven pitches near or - given the number of times I fell - beyond my limit. I was irrationally scared on the first pitch which I top-roped as Doug led the route. Fear is like that: irrational. The likelihood of you getting Covid at this late stage in the “pandemic” (I don’t think I’ll ever not put “pandemic” in quotation marks) with any serious sequealae is vanishingly small, and yet we are still exhorted to wear masks (don’t work) and take “vaccines” (still a dangerous experiment with the vaccinnee as subject).




I dislike fear. It drives irrational behaviour which is almost always counter-productive. When fear is overwhelming - as a terminally nervous climber I’ve felt overwhelming fear too many times - options narrow to such an extent that it can become impossible to see a way forward. It’s visceral when you are rock climbing – suddenly the wall you are on becomes blank and there are no holds anywhere, you could be climbing a vertical or even overhanging mirror. As fear deepens, your legs shake, your hands sweat, your breath becomes shallow and panicky, your vision literally narrows to a pinprick. None of these reactions are conducive to best performance or even mediocrity. It’s a terrible experience, the opposite of flow. If I could never feel fear again, I would.





Fear, of course, is a response to risk, a theoretical concept that humans are even worse at quantifying than we are at determining how many genders exist. Some risks are wholly imagined, such as falling while on a top-rope climb, while others are very real, hearing the deafening crack as the snow slope above you fractures. Most risks are in the grey middle zone wherein our intuitions play havoc with reality. We often classify risks as real versus perceived as if we could wipe away fear by cognitive semantics. Sometimes, we can wrangle our brain into submission and quiet the fear response by separating real from perceived risks, but when fear is too full blown, this seldom works. In this state, we simply cannot think clearly, and it is the emotion we need to address not the objective reality of the risk.



Sunday, May 19, 2024

Intentional Days

Another cancer diagnosis. I have a small circle of friends and acquaintances, the opposite of Malcolm Gladwell’s “connectors.” This means, at least to my pattern seeking human brain, something not quite normal, because the latest diagnosis brings the number to four. I try and tell myself, it’s just chance. I’m 61, many of my friends and acquaintances are older by as much as 10 years, but, when I lived in Canada, my friends were in their late 50’s, early 60’s and some even in their 70’s, I had a bigger circle of friends and acquaintances, and there were far fewer of these cancer diagnoses. Something has shifted.





There is no more compelling case for intentional living than diagnosis with a life threatening illness. I am an observer in these journeys, not a participant, and yet, I feel more than ever the desire to think carefully about how I spend my time, more carefully than the times I’ve honestly wondered if I might die on trips in the mountains when avalanches roared down or rock fall tumbled down narrow gullies we were climbing. Immediate risk seems somehow so much more manageable than delayed risk.





Cycling to the Park Run this morning, a southwesterly wind was blowing and the temperature was just 5 degrees Celsius. As I rode along the water front, a fresh wind tugged at my bare legs. It might have felt cold but, with the spectre of mortality still fresh in my mind, the chilly wind felt exhilarating. Dark clouds scudded over the Tollgate Islands, and out to sea, white horses danced on wave tops. Smiling and nodding, hellos and hugs, familiar faces at the Park Run, and, as always, new faces too. Some walkers, some runners, a couple even wearing weight vests. An intentional start to a Saturday morning that will be like many other Saturdays in some ways, but totally unique in others.

Thursday, May 16, 2024

The Joy of Punting

Endurance is a feeling associated with our reaction to an effort and it only begins when we feel the sensation to stop. ….. Training durations of less than 90-minutes can positively influence >90-minute endurance capabilities, but the common misconception that increasing intensity for shorter efforts produces the same effects as do longer, less vigorous sessions is wrong: time cannot be replaced by intensity. Michael Blevins, nonprophet.


PC: DB

In the sea kayaking world, there’s lots of paddlers who think they can train for long distance, long duration events with short intense intervals. It doesn’t work, and may even impair performance; particularly in older folks where recovery takes longer. Paddlers, climbers, runners, average couch potatoes, we’re all the same, trying to short cut our way to world class results.





We had a climbing day yesterday. I went out optimistically “I’ll crush it today and try all my projects.” Well, I was 50% right, you guess which 50. I tried all my projects – three burns on each, (anymore and I just fall apart) - didn’t get a single one, and, I can’t say I crushed much else, but I did punt, 100%, and I tried hard. Lots of days your performance sucks but if your “try hard” ratio is high, you’ve still won.

Tuesday, May 14, 2024

Snakes, Ropes, and Carbs

Five snakes in mid May, including one red bellied black snake as thick as my forearm! You bet I was moving through the bush cautiously. Apparently, snakes come out after heavy rain, and, as you know if you live in NSW we’ve had heavy rain. After failing to retrieve a rope yesterday, I also had to test my brain to see if I could remember how to prussic up a rope. It took a while, an embarrassingly long time – good thing I was both by myself and not hanging in a crevasse – but I eventually worked out the reason I was making such a mess of it was that my improvised waist prussic was way, way, way too short. Once I extended the waist prussic with my PAS, the problem was solved.


Using the base lodge to practice exiting a crevasse by prussic


You may, or more likely have not, read my long review of “Next Level.” If you haven’t don’t bother reading the review or the book, just read this from a coach and climber, athlete who understands training and performance, and engages in both. Low tide was early this morning and, after all that rain, what a beautiful morning it was. It was both that time of year and that time of day when the sun felt glorious (to quote an eccentric friend of mine).


Stunner of a morning


I read almost exclusively non-fiction; a sort of polymath without the “great learning” part of being a polymath. Right now I’m reading Richard Feinman’s “The World Turned Upside Down.” This is an earlier book, Feinman’s latest is “Nutrition in Crisis.” I’m only two or three chapters in but already it’s a great read, dispelling, in an incisive and humorous way, the nonsense of main stream nutrition advice. Quoting Feinman:

Establishment medical journals and the private and government health agencies have insisted on low-fat, low-calorie dogma in the face of all its failures.”

Which is a talent really, on par with Einstein’s parable of Quantum insanity; which, paraphrased is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result.





Carb loading seems so 1980’s but apparently, it’s still a thing, although this looks more like junk food loading than carb loading and I suspect will result in reduced rather than improved performance. As water goes along with glycogen storage (at a rate of 3 grams of water for each gram of glycogen), overeating carbohydrate will just result in a heavy, sluggish performance. Why are we unable to use common sense? This is analogous to Sims recommending “pre-hydration.” At least, however, if you pre-hydrate you’ll excrete the excess. My first thought is, of course, “tell me you are coached by a main-stream dietitian, without telling me you are coached by a main-stream.” Feinman would shudder.

Monday, May 13, 2024

Remembering History

If you don’t count the rain that fell overnight, today was a day without rain. Over the last two to three days we had in excess of 200 mm of rain at the house. Yesterday afternoon, I walked along to the breakwater at the end of Corrigans Beach. The waves and tide had been up onto the breakwater and the Clyde River was running fast out to sea. Brown water everywhere which didn’t stop a surfer from jumping in right by the breakwater and catching a few waves. All the lagoons and creeks had overflowed and Joes Creek was too deep to cross so I had to walk from the beach west to the pathway and cross on the bridge. I got a mere metre from the east bank of Joes Creek and already the fast moving water was mid thigh.





Today I ran around the Dam Loop which gave me a dual workout of running and lifting heavy things as there were a dozen dead trees fallen over the track. I pulled off at least ten, but some were too big to get off without a chain saw and I didn’t even have gloves let alone any tools. The dam was spilling and I had to take shoes off to wade across.





I’ve had this podcast downloaded for a month or so, but only just got around to listening to it today. It’s pretty good and well worth a listen. Barry Blanchard was, for many years, Canada’s leading alpinist, yet remained a humble guy who talked to anyone he met out on the trails or in the mountains. We used to run across him quite a bit in the Rocky Mountains of Alberta as he was always guiding the Wapta Traverse and we used to ski up there frequently. It always felt a bit strange to see a world class climber hanging out at the Bow Hut or teaching beginners how to tie a butterfly knot on a bite of rope.





It’s funny how society purveys an image of us all getting smarter and smarter and more and more evolved when – at least it seems to me – that we are losing knowledge at a greater rate than ever. In the podcast, Blanchard casually mentions people asking him if he’s ever done an “adventure race” as if a curated, catered and heavily monitored adventure race (no matter how many days it spans) where you can tap out at any point is anything like doing the first ascent of Infinite Patience on the Emperor Face of Mount Robson or multiple hard first ascents on Howse Peak in the Canadian Rockes. Today’s youth (maybe more than youth) have no idea the mental and physical skill required to achieve such a goal, especially given the equipment available at the time.





I’m all for everyone pushing their own limits. The old adage that “comparison is the thief of joy” is true, but a little less hubris about how you nailed your boulder project that one time and a little more humility would sure go a long way. If nothing else, we all look a bit silly when we have no knowledge of the history of our sport, or of our world.





Blanchard has always been an amazing story teller. I saw him once on the University of Calgary campus giving a slide talk1 about his various climbs, and the audience was so mesmerized you could have heard vegan fart. He talked for almost two hours and there was not a person in the audience who was not spell bound. Not bad for a Metis boy who dropped out of university so he could climb in the Alps and proof, if it was ever needed that most experts did not go to university.

1Slide talks were a thing before we all became glued to cat videos on you-tube. Sadly, they are no more.

Wednesday, May 8, 2024

Trainin' When It's Rainin'

I didn’t paddle last Sunday as 45 mm of rain was forecast and, not having a big trip coming up, I thought “I don’t have to, I won’t.” Turns out, I should have and it didn’t. It rained, but only about 10 mm.; which, in the context of the rain we’ve had and the rain predicted, is incidental.




On Monday, I went out for a forest run, but, strictly at my aerobic pace because I did the Park Run on Saturday and lifted on Sunday. The fire trail I was on has all but disappeared – a combination of bush regrowth and erosion from so much rain. I joined up one of the few bits of fire trail I have not run yet where the granite boulders are scattered in the woods. There’s always this thought in the back of my mind that, if I run far enough, I’ll find a 30 metre high granite crag with splitter cracks. No luck so far, just boulders that are either featureless or featured but crumbly. The bush is so thick now that trying to get through with a bouldering pad would be like trying to argue men are not women on X.





The 112 steps at Wimbie Hill – the new bridge over the lagoon is finished but you won’t find it unless you know where it is (turn west when coming from either the north or south) – is my favourite spot for hill sprints. The very top of Wimbie Hill is between 50 and 60 metres high and the walk there and back from my house is a good warm-up/cool down. I managed six sets before my legs were shaking and I started wondering if I would need a defibrillator. I’m never sure how many times to run the hill as I don’t do it regularly enough to remember how I felt last time. Something is better than nothing, however. Training doesn’t have to be perfect.




Doug and I drove north on Wednesday to climb at Indoor Climb South Coast, not a thing we would normally do, but two weeks of unabated rain drives a climber to unusual things. The gym has a bit of an old school feel; school groups probably keep the gym open. Old school gyms make the routes harder by simply spreading the holds out further and further and further. This makes it easy, if you are an old climber, to tweak something. The original climbing gym in Nelson, BC, did this and twice I injured myself, once getting a troublesome case of “tennis elbow” and once popping a finger pulley. Older and wiser, I avoid those sorts of things now; there is no valour in getting injured training. On the way home the rain was bucketing down.

Tuesday, May 7, 2024

Next Level

Will Next Level take you to the next level or leave you about the same as yesterday? Assuming the reader follows the advice, that depends. The book is, like most things in life, a mix of the good, the bad and the indifferent. Many people would be better off; unfortunately some will be worse. Overall, the book falls too much into the “cookie cutter” approach to nutrition and training wherein all women are treated much the same. Ironic really as Sims’ catch phrase is “women are not small men” and should thereby train and eat differently, and yet, in her book, the prescription for nutrition and training is pretty much the same for all women.

The book is an easy and quick read, which is both good and bad. Sure, you can get through the book in a weekend, but at the cost of not really understanding the topic at hand and ending up with an approach to training and nutrition that is overly prescriptive and avoids nuance or human variation.

Like everyone, I have my own biases. I’ve heard Sims on a few podcasts and I’ve also read her other book “Roar.” For better or worse, Sims always strikes me as a person who searches the literature to find evidence that supports her a priori beliefs instead of using the literature to form a theory. In other words, the information she promulgates always sounds like a “fit up” to me.


Grandmother climbing at EPC


Chapters 1 and 2: The Stats, The Stigma, The Silence; and The Science of the Menopause Transition.

The first two introductory chapters include the now compulsory nod to victim ideology. Sims reviews the historical cultural view of menopause through the years to the current day and claims that menopausal women are still marginalised in our modern world. The chapters end with a review of menopause across different races and ethnicity in deference to the inter-sectional nature of female marginalisation and oppression.

Personally, I feel neither marginalised nor oppressed, and I also feel no need to be concerned about how the dominant culture portrays older women. I was three years old when my Mum taught me to not give a f888k about what other people thought, and, if that sentiment were more common, most of the cultural issues we face today would evaporate.

Encouraging a positive view of the changes women experience throughout their life cycle is good, the idea that we need to be influenced by the cultural narrative is bad. If every older woman ignored the current cultural milieu, the milieu would shift. Sims is writing a book about strong women who, presumably, should be able to withstand media representations.



Grandfather climbing



Chapter 3: Hormones and Symptoms Explained.

The subtitle of chapter three is “hormonal havoc” which seems a pejorative way to explain hormonal changes through the older years and not really in sync with Sims’ primary thesis: that women can thrive through older age. If language is important, which Sims clearly thinks it is given Chapters 1 and 2, then less charged language could be used.

The review of hormonal changes however, is clear and helpful. Of course, short of hormone therapy (a poor substitute for the lost hormonal milieu), there’s not much any of us can do about this, but some women may feel more empowered by better knowledge. I admit that the long list of symptoms at the end of the chapter is daunting and reminds me of the lists that people with long Covid (post viral syndrome) generate. I’m never sure how helpful these long lists of symptoms are; sometimes the obsession with being in “your body” seems simply to worsen anxiety among already anxious people.


Mountaineering Grandfather


Chapter 4: Menopausal Hormone Therapy, Adaptagens and Other Interventions.

Sims provides a solid, but basic, review of current medical and naturopathic remedies. This is a good starting point for anyone considering medicating through older age. I particularly like that the focus of this chapter is that the use of Adaptagens or hormonal therapies is a way to help women through a difficult phase of the ageing process rather than a state of continuous treatment.

Case Study:

If I could easily side-bar in my blog page I would so you could get the feel for the first of many case studies presented throughout the book. Here is another of my biases: I dislike books that include case studies scattered throughout the text. I’ve never been able to work out how best to read them. If you read straight through the text, the case study always breaks up the flow of the chapter, if you leave them to the end, you have to page back through (annoying with E-Readers), if you ignore them altogether, you end up wondering if you have missed important information (you haven’t).

Formatting aside, I am unconvinced of the utility of case studies when every individuals life circumstances and behaviour is different. With that acknowledgement, all Sims’ case studies are remarkably similar so one could easily skip all of them and miss nothing. Sims appears obsessed with “low energy availability” (LEA). Every case study in the book features LEA, although every case study in the book also includes women who have gained significant weight and are “over-fat.” By definition, excess body fat is simply stored energy so how it is possible to have LEA and be over-fat at the same time is a marvel of thermodynamics Sims fails to explain.

The end recommendation of the first case study is the same as all the case studies: 2 grams of protein per kilogram of body weight (this should be ideal body weight not current body weight), and 3 grams of carbohydrate per kilogram of body weight. Sims protein recommendation is spot on. Most women are eating far too little protein which inhibits muscle protein synthesis. The carbohydrate recommendation I’m less enamoured with. Physiologically, women become LESS insulin sensitive with age when thickening waist lines and belly fat become an issue. A more nuanced approach is to nitrate carbohydrate to exercise intensity and duration, and individual tolerance. Interestingly, Sims makes no mention of fat intake, which is strange given that protein and fat are essential macro-nutrients and carbohydrate is not.


Ski Mountaineering Grandmother


Chapter 5: Kick Up Your Cardio.

Sims begins the chapter with what now feels very familiar: a diatribe against cultural expectations wherein women are positioned as powerless victims of the dominant culture. We aren’t. We have our own agency and can happily ignore anything that does not support our own best interests.

The remainder of the chapter explains the physiology and practice of short intensity training (SIT), a term that Sims appears to have coined. Most writers refer to this as HIIT (high intensity interval training). Whatever moniker is used, the idea that women should incorporate intensity into their workouts is powerful. Sadly, as both men and women age, our top-end output (primarily powered by the alactic system and type two muscle fibres) deteriorates much faster than low intensity endurance. True SIT/HIIT workouts are painful and easy to skip over in favour of low aerobic intensity work, so I really like that Sims explains the power and importance of these short but intense sessions.

The only true criticism I have of this chapter is that Sims argues for up to three SIT sessions per week which is likely way too many sessions for almost all women, particularly women who are over 60 or even 70. SIT/HIIT sessions require longer recovery than easier aerobic efforts which could interfere with overall training volume. This is another case where Sims appears to be able to brush logic aside. Time under tension matters, and, by definition SIT/HIIT is very short.

Again, one needs to balance generic recommendations with specific individual needs. Women with a poor aerobic base will not be rewarded by training as Sims recommends in this chapter.





Chapter 6: Now’s The Time to Lift Heavy Sh*t.

This chapter is a good introduction to the importance of strength training for older women (and younger women, and middle aged women, ...etc.). Women who have never lifted before might have difficulty implementing this chapter as the advice is sparse and generic, but some kind of resistance training is extremely important and mostly neglected. Most of the exercises Sims details are quite reasonable although it is a shame she does not include body weight versions because older women who have never strength trained will likely need to start with body weight strength training. There is no shame in that. The only shame is in not getting started.

There are two exercises that Sims includes which probably should be avoided unless the woman has both good strength and good mobility. These are the Overhead Squat – which demands a very good level of mobility in order to maintain the proper position and not lean forward, round the spine or default to the all too common “butt tuck.” The second is the Pendlay Row. Underbar rows work the same musculature and are more appropriate for most women.

Chapter Six has another strange case study. In this example, the woman is advised to follow a heavy weight lifting day with Crossfit (also heavy weight lifting) on the next day. Not even a man in his high testosterone 20’s will recover adequately from the first days workout (heavy lifting) to complete the following days (Crossfit) workout.





Chapter 7: Get a Jump on Menopausal Strength Losses.

The chapter begins with the obligatory whine about how older women are portrayed in popular media. I should not need to mention this, nor should Sims keep repeating this completely unhelpful monologue. A couple of dubious studies are briefly reviewed and then some plyometric training is introduced. It is unclear how this extra training stimulus fits into a regular training schedule. There are benefits to plyometrics and they do develop speed and power, but power is simply force divided by time; as such there is no power without strength. Beginner trainees might do better to follow a more standard periodised approach where the first training cycle focuses on developing strength and the next cycle focuses on turning that strength into power.

Sims’ recommendation is to add some kind of plyometric activity three times per week for about 10 minutes each time. This is on top of strength training and SIT training. The logic is somewhat missing here as plyometric training is by its nature is glycolitic (aka high intensity) so older women who physiologically need longer recovery times are actually being encouraged to do SIT training up to six times per week! Good luck with that.


Bouldering Grandfather



Chapter 8: Gut Health For Athletic Glory.

In Chapter 8 Sims provides a decent review of the constantly evolving science of the human biome and how to keep yours healthy. Unfortunately, almost all of the research Sims presents is correlative in nature and thus must be treated with caution. There is also a whiff of oversimplification in this chapter as there is in much of the book, wherein the complexity of human biology is simplified down to an implausible level. There is another case study which will be familiar as it features the LEA status of an overweight woman who somehow manages to lose weight while apparently eating more calories! The miracle every fat person seeks. In this case study, Sims recommends that the woman eat 40 grams of protein at each meal which is an awful lot (approximately six eggs) for most women to consume in one sitting and, it is unclear to how the client manages this amount given Sims recommends a diet of carrots and houmous (maybe 5 grams of incomplete protein).

Perhaps its not surprising given Sims’ obvious carbohydrate bias that the chapter ends with an exhortation to drink sugar sweetened water to “hydrate.” This might be a reasonable strategy if the difference in hydration means winning a gold medal, otherwise, these are just non-nutritive calories which will not benefit most older women who are insulin resistant.


Food with a face


Chapter 9: Eat Enough.

Here Sims gets into what she believes about LEA (and REDS). This is more mysticism than science, particularly given all of her case studies involve women who are overfat. Somehow, to Sims mind, stored calories do not equal energy even though the average non-obese human could run for four days without eating on the amount of energy stored in body fat. Body fat and glycogen stored in muscle tissue and the liver are energy for use during periods when we are not eating and it is not normal to eat all the time (or at least pre-obese times it wasn’t).

According to Sims’: Your goal is to have energy intake that meets your energy demands. It is in this space—and this is important—that you start losing weight if you have excess fat stores to lose.” This is magical thinking. Homeostasis is where energy intake equals energy demands and there will be no loss of weight, fat or otherwise. The only way to lose fat is to achieve at an energy deficit. Unfortunately, as anyone who has tried to lose weight, fat or otherwise, can attest, the body tries very hard to prevent this by subtly and subconsciously increasing hunger and reducing energy output (often by non-exercise activity). Sims’ is once again simplifying complex systems to support a dubious hypothesis.

There is yet another poor case study. In this example Sims recommends “toast and almond butter” pre workout and then “yoghurt, some fruit, nuts and seeds” post workout. How this equates with the recommendation to eat 30 to 40 grams of protein each meal is an enigma as these two “meals” are actually very low in protein. The workout recommendations are similarly unusual; a heavy strength session on day one is followed immediately by hill sprints! Good luck with that. The nutrition advice for Wednesday, which is a similar training day to Monday, is to snack on raisins during a one hour workout, ostensibly to keep energy up. I would suggest that there is some real pathology here if any female is unable to access muscle/liver glycogen and stored body fat to fuel such a short exercise effort. The reader might almost feel, as I did, that the case studies were getting progressively more ridiculous.

The remainder of the chapter is a caution against “trendy diets” like intermittent fasting or ketosis, which, if the pejorative language did not clue you in, Sims recommends against. I always find it strange how the very people that recommend plant based diets (Sims is an advocate of plant based diets) do not consider the exclusion of ALL animal products a “trendy diet” or a “fad.” I must be missing something, perhaps it’s ideology.

I’m an animal eater. I like my food to have possessed a face, but I absolutely support every woman's right to choose. Sims, however, should make it very clear that plant based diets lack certain essential nutrients, rarely contain enough protein from high quality sources and require supplementation to meet nutritional demands.


Jumbo coffee, breakfast of champions


Chapter 10: Fuelling for the Menopause Transition.

Chapter Ten includes the all important macronutrient guidelines. The protein requirements are legitimate but difficult to hit without supplementation on a plant based diet. The carbohydrate requirements seem excessive in a population that is insulin resistant and a better recommendation would be to titrate carbohydrate to tolerance.

In the section titled “What About Protein” Sims enters the world of the truly absurd by listing cauliflower as the top source of meatless protein. In order to get the 30 grams of protein (the minimum Sims recommends), a woman would have to eat a kilogram of cauliflower. I will repeat that: a kilogram of cauliflower. Note this is still incomplete plant protein that is not as well absorbed or utilised by the body as animal protein (complete source of protein).

The next two items on the Top Meatless Protein Sources” list are broccoli and seeds, both of which also require a kilogram to be consumed to get 30 grams of incomplete and poorly absorbed protein. Sunflower seed butter is another top meatless source of protein. Getting 30 grams of protein from sunflower seed butter would require eating 1000 calories of sunflower seed butter! This is half the recommended daily calories to achieve 30 grams of incomplete plant protein. If you can make this mathematics work I applaud you.

To round out the chapter, Sims gives a recipe for a “super smoothie” which is billed as easily providing your “daily dose of protein”. This super smoothie includes: “frozen cauliflower, fresh spinach and kale, Greek yogurt, and mixed seeds like hemp and chia for a protein-packed super-smoothie.” Clearly, a smoothie made with an average amount of any of the above ingredients will not get anywhere close to providing 130 grams of protein, unless, of course, it includes multiple kilograms of cauliflower, spinach and even yoghurt.

At this point, the reader might be wondering how much protein Sims herself eats and whether she has actually calculated the protein amounts in her dietary recommendations. Portentously, the chapter ends again with older women, who are by nature of their hormonal milieu insulin resistant, being encouraged to drink water with added sugar!


Slab Climbing Grandad


Chapter 11: Nail Your Nutrition Timing.

Chapter 11 is ostensibly about how to time your nutrition to minimise muscle loss. Again, this is more mysticism than science as actual physiological science indicates that nutrient intake rather than timing is most important for muscle protein synthesis. Sims recommends foods such as “banana and peanut butter” or “toast and nut butter” prior to training. Again, this is in direct contrast to Sims’ own recommendation that women consume a minimum of 30 grams of protein at each meal. It is almost as if Sims is either ideologically captured or cannot do basic mathematics.

Quoting Sims: “I often see women skipping this important step because they think that not eating after exercise will help them burn more fat. The opposite happens. Their body ends up in a highly stressed state, with high blood sugar, and is more apt to store body fat and slow down metabolism.” This is another physiological impossibility as one of the most effective ways to lower blood sugar is to exercise.


Grannies for Protein


Chapter 12: How to Hydrate.

Another of my biases. I think drinking to thirst is adequate for almost everyone and water is better than sugar sweetened beverages. Tim Noakes covers hydration well in his book “Water Logged.” Sims argues that drinking pure water will result in increased urination but then, somewhat bizarrely encourages women to hyperhydrate pre-event. I don’t think anyone needs a case control or randomized study to recognise that if you drink a lot before you are thirsty (aka before an event) the only outcome is that you will need to urinate a lot. We’ve all been there and been scrambling to find the toilet.

Chapter 13: Sleep Well and Recover Right.

Chapter 13 includes some reasonable tips on how to improve sleep. There is nothing revolutionary here but surprisingly few people have good sleep hygiene habits. There is yet another not very good case study this time about a 62 year old vegan for whom Sims prescribes two hard training days in a row followed by an easier day and two more hard training days thereafter. Show me a 62 year old who is doing back to back hard training days and I’ll show you a woman whose easy days are too hard and hard days too easy. The proverbial black hole of training which works until catastrophically it doesn’t.


Front Lever on Rob Roy


Chapter 14: Stability, Mobility and Core Strength.

This chapter covers some basic foam rolling and easy core work suitable for beginners. Advanced trainees will need to look elsewhere for more comprehensive information.

Chapter 15: Motivation and the Mental Game.

A chapter with some basic motivational tips. Motivation is so unique and individual that each woman will likely need to find their own “why.”

Chapter 16: Keep Your Skeleton Strong.

Chapter 16 covers osteopenia and osteoporosis. Like the gut biome, this is an area with an ever evolving knowledge base. Many of the new drugs have been shown to improve bone density on scans but not reduce fracture occurrence in life, so this is a complex topic muddied by Big Pharma which makes Big Money on drug treatments. To her credit, Sims entire philosophy of training and nutrition should go a long way towards preventing osteoporosis, osteopenia and even fractures.

Chapter 17. Strategies for Exercising Through the Transition.

In this chapter Sims pulls together much of the book to offer some ideas for how active women can remain active throughout the aging process. Sims has some good tips that may prove useful for many women. The only thing I would quibble with is the amount of carbohydrate Sims recommends.

Chapter 18. Supplements.

Sims is refreshingly anti-supplement except as an aid to transition through difficult symptoms. However, given that Sims advocates a plant based diet, most women who follow her plant based diet will need to supplement with some essential amino acids as well as certain B vitamins and possibly even iron.


A bunch of old people on an 8 day ski traverse


Chapter 19: Pulling It All Together.

In the final chapter, Sims attempts to pull the entire book together with a methodology for following all of her recommendations. I must admit that by the time I got to this chapter my eyes were glazing over as there were so many charts and symptoms and calculations that one might almost be inclined to give up before ever getting started. Sims biases as a carbohydrate based athlete are very clear in this chapter and are in opposition to much of the recent research on fat utilisation during endurance activities. I doubt anyone is motivated enough to go through her four week program of implementation and even if someone did, four weeks (actually three weeks as the fourth week is allocated to assessing the previous three) is not enough to change habits.

Overall, the advice is too prescriptive and lacks the possibility of individualisation to suit personal circumstances and responses. I train virtually every day and have almost limitless enthusiasm and energy for training and yet even I think that timing everything with such regimentation would destroy my desire to train.

What’s good about this book: The advice to strength train and to prioritize protein intake.

What’s bad about this book: The overly prescriptive advice to eat (what amounts to) a high carbohydrate diet with no indication that carbohydrate amount should be titrated to tolerance. The meal suggestions make it obvious that Sims has no real life experience in actually achieving the protein amounts she recommends.

What’s indifferent: Most of the book.

Is the book a “game changer” or even “level changer”: Unlikely.