We had previously committed to helping
out with a “canoegaine” on Lake Tinaroo on Sunday, and, in order
to improve on the all important “drive to activity” ratio, we
decided to camp overnight at Davies Creek and hike to the top of the
Lamb Range on Monday. The forecast wasn't really that good, but, as
I've mentioned before, you can never really tell with Australian
weather forecasts what will eventuate. A forecast for “showers”
can result in either 1 or 100 mm of rain in 24 hours, and anything in
between.
The big granite boulders of Lambs Head
After a rather unpalatable meal at the
RSL club in Mareeba – why is every vegetable consumed in Australia
a starch? (probably the same reason nearly every Australian has a big
wheat belly) - we drove off to find ourselves a campsite as the rain
began. It's always difficult f**king around in the rain trying to
set up camp, especially when it is also dark, so it's probably no
surprise that our nice, flat well drained campsite actually – come
morning when we could see properly – turned out to be below a steep
slope that turned into a rushing water-course with any precipitation.
View from one of the Lambs Head boulders
It wasn't raining in the morning, but
the forecast for “periods of rain” was fresh in our minds so we
skipped breakfast (easy to do with metabolic flexibility from eating
a paleo diet) and started the walk right away. I dropped Doug off at
the first trail-head (“Ridge track”) and drove another 2.5 km
along the road to the second trail-head (“Kahlpahlim Rock track”).
These two routes converge about 1 km from the top of the Lamb Range.
My trail was easy to follow and not
very steep. I was chugging along making good time when I felt a
small pinprick on my ankle and looked down to see a leech on my right
ankle. I flicked it off with a stick, and noted another leech on my
left ankle, I flicked that leech off, and noticed another leech on my
right calf, then another on the left calf, then further up the right
leg, the left foot, leeches, leeches everywhere. I pulled up my
socks, but, as everyone knows socks are no deterrents to leeches,
neither are shoes, gaitors, trousers, or pretty much any other
man-made barrier.
View to the west
I plugged along, stopping every so
often to flick off a dozen leeches and after somewhat more than an
hour I got to the track junction. I vaguely remembered reading
something in the guidebook about there being two routes along the
final section on the ridge, one higher and one lower, but the exact
details evaded me, and, truthfully, all I could think about was
getting the hike done and escaping the leeches. Great quantities of
leeches can send you a bit crazy.
The QPWS trail is marked with the
standard orange triangles so I followed those down past a cleft
between two boulders, under a fallen tree, along the base of some
large granite boulders and then began the final steep, rooty climb up
to a saddle. I ran into, not literally, Doug on this final climb up.
I could see he was shocked by the leech situation – his eyes were
rolled back in his head in a strange manner and he was stopping every
few seconds to frantically flick at this legs, and kept exclaiming
“hundreds, there's hundreds of them.” I pushed past and soon
came out at some kind of structure in a cleared area. Here I
stripped off my shoes and socks and plucked big fat leeches off my
feet which were running with blood. When Doug arrived he did the
same. We attempted to squash the buggers, but, as you all know,
killing leeches without salt is difficult. They are surprisingly
resilient.
De-leeching
We snapped a few pictures of the view
and then investigated a flagged trail that led off from the tower.
This track went down, down, down – at least that is how it looked
to us – and we weren't sure that the track did not eventually
descend the west side of the range which was nowhere we wanted to go,
at least with the leech situation as it was, so we walked back. A
short scramble up a steep section of track opposite the tower leads
to a good view from the top of another large granite boulder.
Looking in the guidebook when I got home, I discovered that the
downhill track leads down to a boulder lookout below.
Desperate to escape the leeches (yes,
we are sooky) we hightailed it back along the ridge track to the main
track junction. Doug went to the left, going down the track I came
up, while I went right and went down the track he came up. We both
thought we had the better end of the deal. Once I passed the
junction I seemed to escape leech terrain as the ridge trail is
fairly open, while Doug thought he could go faster through the leech
infested terrain I came up as he was going downhill.
On the final rocky ridge
Four hours after starting, I came out a
the first track junction and walked down the road until Doug came
along with the car. We both plucked ourselves clean of leeches and
went off for a swim in Davies Creek.
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